I do not Mihailo Lomonosov. Naturalist, who escaped from the Pomeranian marriage for Moscow desk, overcame 1133 keme with fish wagon train for three weeks. In my life there is no such giving acceleration factors, such as weddings and stepmother, instead of the centripetal forces dominate centrifugal mainly so that together with aviaobozom "Nordavia" I covered the distance from Moscow to Arkhangelsk for only half an hour. A year ago, while traveling along the Kola, I was filled with a sincere respect for the Russian North. So a visit to Arkhangelsk was not long in coming. Objective: To better view the northern lights, join the Pomeranian culture, become a few days Arkhangelsk (!), Finally. The north wind - the most serious power out of existing ones.
However, like any scientist, I am waiting for the difficulties the planned experiment. In an e-ticket Nordavia as the departure airport was succinctly stated: "Sheremetyevo" - without specifying the terminal. For old time's sake I motanulsya at Sheremetyevo-1, which was completely empty: there were only a scoreboard, which glowed with flights running line "by Flight of the terminal D». Well, that without the smiley. What is Terminal D, I learned after the departure of my flight.
Sheremetyevo-3 has disappointed me greatly. Previously, the name was reserved for Vasilevsky descent, which in 1987 shortly before the collapse of the Union famously landed a 19-year-old West German Mathias Rust dolt. Do not even know if I can have it so well to get into this, "Airport." Terminal D - is DurDom, not a wish "Dobryh Druzey in Doroge" marked on the promotional posters. Firstly, he is deprived of the normal entrance to the bus, and you have 15 minutes with luggage to walk to it from the Sheremetyevo-2 for the ongoing construction in the face of migrant workers and foremen. Helmet is nowhere to be. Second bug: annoying ill-conceived engineering design solution for the newest terminal, the main gate of the country in which the toilets for some reason, are located only on the second floor, between the arrival hall (at first) and place (the third), next to the room for mother and child (!). The only advantage - they are really new, modern and clean (yet!) compared with the adjacent international terminal. Navigational arrows pointing in the direction of toilets - stupid, can be reached only with very great desire - the escalator or elevator, provided that they are not blocked late for registration. There is also a such a "Mercurian" innovation, such as shops "free trade" - in the departure lounge domestic flights. I would have been "mysterious passengers - Terminal D would have received from me disadvantages in many graphs. Instead of the planned 12 million passengers a year test at the end of last year showed that the S-3 may serve only 9 million, if we consider that all this mess and chaos of our national carrier has spent $ 863 million (instead of the planned $ 430 million!) funded by us, the passengers, it is doubly sad. Full byaking!
But fate gave me the opportunity to met here with the nature of the northerners. I tried to reissue my ticket in hand fakapnuty "Nordavia and record its dissatisfaction with the mediocre of an electronic receipt (I was told:" Sign up for our mailing list! "). A young woman with a baby, who was standing behind me in line, apparently, multiplying my boots on my feet for cash confusion on his face, thoughtfully offered to help me to pay a higher tariff. Price of the issue - and a half thousand. Said she thought that I should by all means fly to Arkhangelsk. All this, of course, cool and totally not in Moscow.
Northerners in general - patient and enduring people. For example, flights to Naryan-Mar passengers waiting for 5 days due to bad weather. And no blather. Quietly behind me in line at the cash register and unemotionally ask whether you can see a representative of the airline for the latest meteonovosti and when still planned to perform the flight.Immediately I myself figure out what Noah would have raised the Muscovite, if the flight to Milan or London would be detained for two hours! The Arkhangelsk region is usually referred to in connection with the launch of another rocket from the Plesetsk cosmodrome, or another conflict in the Shtokman field. About the people who live here know a little offensively.
Arkhangelsk (in common - "Arkhara", or "Archa") - City Of Angels on the Dvina - as we know, the town board, cod, and longing. Another is the center of Arkhangelsk region - the northern most (because it includes Franz Josef Land) and the largest region of Russia (587.4 thousand sq. km.. - Not huhrymuhry! - More than in Russia, there are no such subjects in the status of "domain" for Except republics and provinces). Arkhangelsk is sometimes confused with Astrakhan and then there is the estate near Moscow.
Any city, even the smallest, enveloped in a halo of myths and fables. It is believed that the Archangel temperature always tends to absolute zero. It is not. Of course, this is not Murmansk - the Gulf Stream was not enough. Nevertheless, the temperature here, although the climate is considered sub-Arctic, and the inhabitants of "drip" northern allowances, thanks to the proximity of the seas - just like in St. Petersburg, and to the Arctic Circle - to nag and nag (200 km). Lives here are much milder than in the same latitude in Yakutia and Chukotka. In the summer, of course, the white nights in the winter - the polar darkness. Contrary to popular belief, the notorious northern lights - neryadovoe event in the life of man in the street, Arkhangelsk. Interviewed residents say they saw him just once or twice in my life. Arkhangelsk! .. Savor. Well, what sounds! While skeptics argue that "Arkhangelsk" - this is the archangels, gorodyaschie knows that ...
From Moscow to hail the name of the heavenly warrior 1.5 hours in the sky toward the North Pole. Cabin Crew-"nordaviatory" have blue tie with tiny images of helicopter rotor blades with the letter "igrek, and flight attendants sported stylish dark blue shirts, embroidered with a la pearls and decorated with beautiful white snowflakes. On the tail of our Boeing-737 northerners designers drew some HANGING ICE DAMS. Looks to the topic - Nord. It is puzzling is that despite the "osirotenie and rebranding, initiated Aeroflot after a recent crash in Perm on board Nordavia still written in bold maternal word - Aeroflot-Nord.
Conversations in the cabin crew, it turns out that the Northern Lights are best seen from the airplane. Brilliant yellow-green flashes - above the clouds. For these purposes, promising to choose an evening flight to geovozmuschennuyu time.
No lights, I, of course, in the sky above the Archangel had not seen, but this city can be seen from afar. Thick-and-white cloud of smoke seems to elevate our Boeing and blow away from the approved air corridors. In the Arkhangelsk region - more than 3% of Russian forests in the Arkhangelsk about 30 saw mill, and birch trees here are not stunted growth. Archangel's forests and sawmills are accompanied for two PPM - Solombala and Novodvinsk, so that environment there is clearly no smell, and can breathe only with a favorable wind. Novodvinsk PPM generally similar footage Eyyafyatlayokudl April eruption in Iceland, because of which is known to be suspended for a couple of weeks, all flights over Europe. I think that catches from the Northern Dvina River - upstream to dump waste and even Kotlas, and Syktyvkar pulp and paper mill - is likely to "delight" wood chemical MPC, but not omega-3. So much for the board, and cod - nostalgia! In addition to efferent brain works "Arbuma and CHP from the height of our Boeing hit the size of the city: it stretched along the Dvina River by as much as 40 kilometers!
Battle of the dark and light: the skyscrapers and rallies
February 21 Arkhangelsk meets anticyclonic sun and excellent cryotherapeutic frost. Minus 25. From the airport, "Talagi" in the center of the city is often rides the bus number 12 (20 minutes 10rub) and the corresponding taxi (12rub). It is known that in Archangel in June 1907 was launched first in Russia (!) Regular public bus German mark, and he opened his private business. Now passengers served by municipal keyway. Arkhangelsk was Russia's first obltsentrom, renounced the tram (2004).But authorities in the style of Venice support boats and ferries - not every city can boast these kinds of public transport. As for routes Arkhangelsk - and this for me was a shock! - They were equipped with something more abruptly than the satellite navigation system - the conductor! I am more of this in any region is not met. Apparently, useful innovation - both from a social point of view (reduced unemployment), and for reasons of safety on the road (admission does not distract the driver while driving). At the same fares keep economically adequate - respect!
The first five minutes walk of Arkhangelsk me very clearly reminded of the Netherlands. No, my face, no one breathed a glass of cold water on my way there was no bicycle, bisexual, and smart shops. I'm just out there - the only one in the entire country - stubbornly wore orange T-shirt. At the same Arkhar I had the impression that the boots I was alone in the city. Passers-by watching with interest asked where I bought these cool boots. When they hear that in Moscow, so even then, that in the capital including "Office boots", are sold in province are affected to the core.
City Centre - a very compact space, bounded on one side of the promenade and local pedestrian Arbat, known as "Chumbarovkoy (pr-Chumbarov Lyuchinskogo) - on the other. Central Avenue, a business card and the face of the city, positioned as a street-museum under the open sky, bears a double name of one of the poet-revolutionary. In 2005, city authorities decided to build a wooden Here have been gathered in Arkhangelsk, which is collected unique wooden buildings of the old Archangel - believe urbanized branch Small Korel. The most famous building, transported here - Marfin House, former House Commercial collection (mid-XIX century). However, the ancient, beautiful wooden houses defaced with numerous ulcers advertising signs located in these firms. In new homes that are built on Chumbarovke and the Pomeranian, to live well. Hot water, large windows, locks code, and all that jazz. Only boring, they all of a silicate brick built. That no house, like in a bath, or the police.
Reconstruction "Chumbarovki" waged by the people's money: formalized territory soulless, but neat benches and lamps, a monument storyteller, a painter, "the little man, great artist," Northern volschebniku words "Pisahovu (he lived next door - in the now-demolished house number 27 per ul.Pomorskoy) and pisahovskomu hero and the main narrator (Arkhangelsk peasant - the Seine from the village of Malin Uymy). Bronze sculpture Pisahova as if reaching out to passers-by in the other hand - a nostalgic string bag with the fish, a gull sitting on a hat, apparently attracted by the smell of string bags. Pisahov - it's our northern Terry Gilliam. At the end of the street is a clothing and grocery market, all painted in the style of Pomerania (including hanging at the entrance to the logo of "United Russia" is not in the polar brown bear - a must see!). Trade in Archangelsk somehow detached. Allegedly, the product of ours, but we are by themselves, and the commodity itself. Well, if you buy, not buy, so be it. At the market you can buy a normal suvenirki - a pair of authentic Pomeranian footwear (boots and felt boots), this roe from this kozulnitsy, a kilo of Naryan-Mar venison (from 250rub) yes, the very soaked cloudberry that he asked before his death, Pushkin. In terms of gastroetniki Arkhara clear winner in Murmansk.
Navigating the city is quite simple. The main landmark - 24 etazhka early Chumbarovki - the only surviving today Archangel Skyscraper (local call it "high-building" or "pencil"). Construction of the late 70th unique local wetland soils. Today, this architectural masterpiece novel has become a commonplace business center. In the 22 th floor broadcasts "Europe +". Since the elevators from time to time been denied on this radio station no one leader, who has not climbed into their own twenty-second floor on foot.
Illustrative story that happened with a second skyscraper Arkhara - wooden (!).It was the tallest in the world, unique wooden residential building on what was planned to get an official opinion, signed by the Guinness book publisher. No metal, fittings inside - just the usual staples, the present wooden architecture in the spirit and tradition in the art. Wooden house was illegally built on East Street in Solombala in the middle of difficult 90th arhangelogorodskim businessman Nikolai Sutyagin, reminiscent of their liking Evgeny Chichvarkin. Owner of the house - part-time developer and author of the project - not an architect and not an oligarch, and construction practices with three decades of experience that was, and diggers, and a carpenter and foreman, now - mediocre businessman, owner of a small construction and timber companies. Its drop dead 38-meter and 13-storey wooden skyscraper in February 2009, authorities demolished (to us here samostroev type is not necessary - even global importance). By order of the independent Russian court. The fact that the Archangel is prohibited to build special wooden buildings over two floors without prior approval from the authorities. Miracle house 10 years standing without a permit from the city nor the architect nor the fire, nor from the district administration. However, in the course of legal debate, the chief specialist in the wooden architecture professor Barashkov said that the house is actually two-story, and anything above the second floor - eeee .... roof, the roof is so unusual. Sutyagin really lived in this house only on the first two floors. The story of the "Tower Sutyagin" strikingly similar to the recent Moscow scandal "Rechnik" - without regard to engineering and tourism significance of the "eighth wonder of the world." Anyway, I had no luck: exactly one year I was late with his arrival at Archangel.
On the contrary non-wood, but no less ambitious 24-etazhki - a monument to Ilyich against the former building of Regional Committee of the Communist Party. To find the area of Lenin Lenin's no need to multiply the width to the height of Lenin - is enough to find a suitable monument to the demonic. This - the last statue of Lenin in Soviet history, established in late 1988 to place the fountain. Architect Lev Kerbel not without the city said: "My dream is to make Lenin so that the monument and wanted to go one on one with Ilich quiet, think, ask, if necessary, the Council". However, the situation around the monument does not herald any quiet thoughts, reflections and advice: the prince of the world proletariat hold regular rallies and demonstrations. I got one of these - 21 February the Communist Party has collected several hundred people under the slogans of protest about corruption and anti-national Putinism tariff increase utility bills. Most of all I was amused voodoo doll in the snow, clad in a white Tops with the inscription «NO THEKWONDO» - apparently symbolizes our premier judo (mixed martial arts). Blade head.
Despite the demonstration with red flags Archangel, perhaps - the most outrageous, most anti-Soviet city in Russia. Name the city miraculously forgotten to carry the revolution. Local authorities appealed to Moscow three times about the renaming. Suggested that the Lomonosov (if you ignore the estestvoispytany, hooligan, in fact, name) Stalinport, even some obscure Miheevsk (the dream of a proletarian NV Guseva, who in 1935 proposed to give the city the name of the "fearless Soviet pilot" Mikheev) .. . There were also promising idea to call Archangel Lesopilskom, Severogradom, Lesodvinskom, Krasnodvinskom, White Sea, and Dvinomorskom Polyardvinskom. Try to imagine as if in this case became known as the townspeople. Stalinoporty and stalinoportyanki? While at public events and private drinking some argangelogorodtsy resemble lesopilchan. And only through a single phrase, thrown by Comrade Stalin, the city was destined to remain "Archangel."
But the streets in the city, almost all of the cross. Bremen has become a "first. Wide, the American - to the Soviet, English - Mayakovsky, the French - in Chelyuskintsev and Norway - in general, the Red guerrillas. Former street. The cathedral became a challenge for many generations of tram conductors, selflessly trying to pronounce the name of Karl Liebknecht.The Communists blasted a Lutheran church, church, synagogue, mosque, the Church of England, as well as the Assumption, Nativity, Annunciation, and Michael the Archangel Church with the same monastery who gave once name of the city.
At the regional administration building are ice sculptures with frozen into them with coins. But much more attention unusual emblem of the city and region. Resemble familiar to all Muscovites, Georgians and Ethiopians George's, but a sword depicted on them of heavenly warrior raised not against the snake-dragon, and Contrary to some nigger hell - with wings, horns and tail. I must say, this is the most religious, the most infernal and the most politically incorrect design of the Russian Federation: Russian white warrior, raising his hand to his black counterpart. Victory for the forces of good over evil forces, done locally over the City Hall and the governor is commendable, though not quite obvious. And the punishment of God's power over evil spirits made with cruelty: observant eye will notice that in the hands of the archangel is not just a sword, and a real Cloak. Also hot. Unlike a regular sword, he leaves rotting scars: a wavy edge makes multiple small incisions inside a large incision. Injured by Cloak caused gangrene. Very effective sword.
From the plot echoes the emblem and the legend of Arkhangelsk staroobradtsev, which states that the battle between the celestial forces under the auspices of the Archangel Michael and the forces of evil have won the first. Defeated Satan fell and struck the ground at the site, located on the territory of modern Arkhangelsk region. Now this place is hidden swampy ground and overgrown with fine wood, and Archangel Michael continues to have an invisible watch a sealed access to the kingdom of darkness (interestingly, by the way, where it ?!!). However, I was no less interesting and what they think residents of the city and region the presence of the devil on his coat of arms, takes up half the area of heraldry. Satan on every official seal and documents in the name of the heavenly city of the warrior - agree, very strange thing.
On the degree of their syurnosti and theological concepts to Arkhangelsk coat of arms, probably the closest only coat Permyaks and residents of the Permian region. Their emblem is a remarkable, buggy bear - firstly, it is not in the Urals brown and white in Arkhangelsk, and secondly, it is the gospel on his back - a sort of bear-Christian. I do not know what was in Perm, authorities say about the hosts of the taiga and the scriptures, but now the mayor of Arkhangelsk, quite officially, in an interview with the media, appeals to the impure forces and mysticism, accusing flirting on the city coat of arms of the devil in the continuing problems with housing and dilapidated housing. Mair exorcist. Favorites ...
Quay Robinson Crusoe
Descended through Peter's Park to the waterfront and the monument to Peter I («monument to the 500-ruble banknote). Argues that the first Russian emperor is depicted in a natural growth. Young Peter Archangel loved and even visited him twice, despite the protests of my mother - in 1693 and 1694. House of Peter I was standing near the Red (byv.Sobornoy) the docks (it in the 20th years. Was taken to Moscow - in Kolomna, where it stands to this day). King beckoned to this maritime city with an unusual "European accent and an international trade fair which gathers a lot of strange foreign ships. On the printed in 1615 in Amsterdam, the first map of Russia was listed only two cities - Moscow and Arkhangelsk. Business here first, by leaps and bounds. In 1664, revenues from maritime trade Arkhangelsk, accounting for two thirds of the then Russian treasury. But love - the energy variable. Soon windy Peter drew a draft of his name himself. Lobbying interests of the new capital, he "thanked" Arkhangelsk, forbidding him to international maritime commerce. A flourishing economy of the capital of Pomerania immediately collapsed. Interestingly, there are Arkhangelsk after all this, the monument of flowers?
A neighbor of the controversial Peter is also very controversial. At Cape Pur-tongue close to the most luxurious hotels in the city will be a monument to Robinson. Crusoe. Only true fans arharavedy yes Daniel Defoe knew of the existence of the second book of the famous novel - "Further Adventures of Robinson Crusoe" - about his new traveling through Brazil, Madagascar, Siam, Philippines, China and Russia.At the age of 61 he went to the last of his life long journey, which was successfully completed in Arkhangelsk in 1695. According to the book, Robinson Crusoe lived here for almost a month - from 18 July to 20 August - during the international fairs, and from here, from Archangel ship pier, in Hamburg's ship returned to Europe. In this regard, July 18 informally (yet), celebrating the Day of Robinson Crusoe, in which even spend an unusual contest in Friday (girls). In short, the cult of personality Robinson, slowly but surely gaining momentum - a sort of saint Nicholas of modern times.
North harsh climate is hard to reconcile with the removed initiatives on putting up the monument to Robinson Crusoe and the announcement of Arkhangelsk home snowman (snowmen on duty on the roads with traffic police officers Archangel, and the eve of the 2007 mayor's office has built a 12-meter skeleton of a snowman but the snow never fell out). This is not the whole sur. On the waterfront of the Northern Dvina front of the Eternal Flame to be installed on the people's money Monument White Sea seal, abattoir savior of the residents of Arkhangelsk and the siege of Leningrad during World War II. Because Archangel on mortality from starvation was second after the siege of Leningrad. According to the testimony of veterans, the daily bread ration in the military Arkhangelsk dropped to 125 grams - as in the siege of Leningrad. However, agree that Peter Snowman, Robinson and seals - is a landscape-ideological sorting for such a compact and relaxation places like promenade.
The famous promenade Arkhangelsk - eternal Chusei, the main place the rest of citizens. Even though the bike, that granite, which she finished, radioactive. In winter there quietly and deserted, quiet only broken by the wind and the occasional skiers. But in summer white nights here pulled together all the neighboring rollers, piknikery, visionaries, philanderers and party-goers. Dvina - a very wide river. Through it, nowadays there are two bridges. They even moved apart in the summer - in St. Petersburg. But not on the sides and middle. Somewhere from 1 to 4 o'clock. And in the winter here is interesting to look at including expanded ice with an aggressive name HANGING ICE DAMS. Stroll along the waterfront can be briefly interrupted, looking at the chamber hall Philharmonic - a "church" as often referred to as a Lutheran elegant building of the XVIII century, to listen to authority, or to enjoy classical music performed by the Arkhangelsk Chamber Orchestra.
Near the waterfront is Solovetsky monastery courtyard with built hotel and a church Zossima Savvatius and Herman Solovki. Famous monastery that extracts rents from nehily rybopromysla and salt production in the XVII century. opened at this place their household stores and shopping stores. A little further, - elegant St. Nicholas Church (1904) in the colors of marquees (former DC sailors), as well as the old German cemetery. Check it necessarily: lovely mini-park and a monument with an inscription in German and in Russian: "The merchant Franz Johannes Sholts. Died in San Remo, to be buried in Arkhangelsk. Germans called all foreigners. They were citizens of the world, but wanted to live and to die is in Arkhangelsk.
Next - Palace of Sports to the rink on okolomoskovskim prices (input 110rub, rolling 80rub/chas), to which - no joke! - Winter beats the real fountain of hot water, melting the ice surrounding the skirtings. This is not a sign of the torn tube heating. This is not quite a fountain, rather - a technical construction, cooling tower for cooling the ice field the Sports Palace. The pride of the city. In the summer instead of the rink - a pool and fountain does not work. Phenological Arkhangelsk sign: Fountain Square earned the unions - a sure sign that winter is on the nose and the rink is already filled. From this thermal engineering solutions in the Far North head off really blows. So much for the president's energy efficiency.
In winter fountains is rearranged monument "valorous defenders of the Soviet North in 1918-1920. Where historically there was this monument, is now actively erecting mnogokupolny Michael the Archangel Cathedral was blown up in place of the descendants of the defenders of the Soviet North.Heavenly patron of the city returned to the embankment on the off-budget money.
ArhaPryaniki
To warm Bosko numb after a long walk, I went to the museum Pisahova. There was an exhibition of intriguing Archangel roe - a national delicacy of coast-dwellers, who molded their traditionally only once a year - at Christmas and carols. It's so sweet products, amulets - ceremonial pastries and edible toys - decorated with colorful icing and made of a special rye dough with a burnt caramel in the form of goats, deer and other strange creatures and gizmos. Shelf life roe - a calendar year, and next of kin - European marzipan (culinary and creative blend of crushed almonds and powdered sugar, also known as "edible clay").
"Go into the fire!" - With these animating words drive the herd fragrant roe wonderful Pomeranian grandmother. Here is what Pisahov of occult northern carrot: "In the spring of 1914 at my request, the old woman took bungle roe. Roll out the dough thread and start folding pattern that is whispering. I asked: "What, grandma, whispering?" Stop old woman and said sternly: "You're not knocked down, if necessary roe. Did the old lady whispering anything to roebuck do not know. The old woman did not explain. Others pleaded ignorance. "
Roebuck - exclusively domestic product, not the factory, and molded roe family. The goat was a symbol of prosperity in the house, and making such magical cereal stocks to symbolize prosperity of the family. Roe - a prototype bright future, yielding a pagan imitation of reality. Baked roe is not eaten immediately, and in any case not thrown out. These charming Pomeranian brownies protect the house from evil spirits (and hunger?). Some of them hung on a Christmas tree, some of them wonders. On the New Year she put her "Kazulka" on the floor and let out a rooster. If the rooster carrying biscuits at a large angle, then she married this year will come, and if the hall - it's time to prepare a dowry. Girls are also supposed to bestow generously baked with love roe guys - this was considered a good omen for a successful marriage in the new year.
Moreover, the exhibition has been informative, so more and tastier! And in pisahovski fabulous! Price Range of northern rivals Tula - from 15 to 150 rubles.
Samoyeds with Pomeranian
Adjacent to the Museum Pisahova I found the Museum of Art Arctic them. AA Borisov (Pomeranian, 3). That's nazvanitse - artistic exploration of the Arctic! There I found the opening of an exhibition of some inspired local artist. On this occasion, to make a free entry, and all interested persons were distributing candy themed "Bears in the North" and pour cooled to sub-Arctic temperatures of champagne in unlimited quantities. Exhibited in the museum objects were at all possible Arctic theme: landscapes of the New Earth, sketches, bird colonies, Nenets dress code of reindeer fur (kuhlyanki and torbosa, but I especially liked the hat "slap" with the long braids that instead of a scarf wound around his neck, except the White Sea of the North, such long-eared hats never worn, so why not take to popularize the brand under the slogan "Each tourist - to slap in the face!").
Conversation - after some champagne - the young (!) Supervisor of the museum. It turned out Nenets about a thousand years ago came to the Russian North to South Siberia, Altai and Sayan. That is, from south to north, which, in my opinion, a big migration rare. "Samoyeds" - so called before they were called Russian. To cannibalism, however, it has nothing to do. Although the need to survive in harsh Arctic conditions Nenets taught to eat raw meat with blood: it is not only food with calories and multivitamin - especially C and B2, so the Nenets people do not suffer from scurvy. Samoyeds - from himself edin "- Lone wolves, leading detached life on the tundra and have a nomadic tradition.
Previously, the Nenets solder Russian merchants, buying furs and then for a song, now doing the same modern entrepreneurs, but for the venison. So Nenets live freely, but it thumps pretty grim.And Evens, and Chukchi, and Khanty and Nenets people - they all drank "firewater", can not stop until you do not drink anything that is, degrading the consciousness to the level of lichen.
His sons reaching the age of 9, Nenets devote to "san" - to hunters. To do this, Nenets teenager to kill a polar bear a special, rather inhumane way - to impose on the hook for fat, which bear swallows and die in agony. Such is, children rybalochka in Nenets ... We can only wonder how missing white bears in all the Nenets boys (after all, the Nenets, 6-8 children).
The second great tradition of Nenets, which I told my companion mnogoznayuschaya: if the husband for some reason dies, unmarried relative of the husband is obliged to take a widow with all means at her children as his wife! Family responsibility and mutual responsibility. Thus, the most famous Nenets narrator, "the son of the pole star and artist" naivist - Tyko Vylka - was married three times, and the last time it was for this family tradition. In his youth he spent much time painting, exhibited in Moscow, Vasnetsov was friends with, walked into romping bowler hat and gold pince-nez, but when his brother died, Tyko Vylka, following custom, returned home and married the widow of his brother with six children. Being already in a fairly advanced age. Children nenchat those he grew, the formation of dal. They called his father.
Nenets girls were married off early - in 12-13 years. I thought that only the southern peoples of early ripening. Life expectancy Samoyed was low - 35-40 years, and for the elderly there was another very unusual tradition: when they felt that the bony just around the left shoulder that goes out the look and weak legs, they supplied food and water and left to die alone in the tundra. They asked for it, so do not be a burden to their loved ones in an already harsh conditions. And sometimes family-Samoyeds generally stoked their elders or they stuck a knife through the heart. Go to physical death Nenets calmly and wisely. After all, it's not. In the Nenets language, the word "death" and "disease" are the same. Life - forever. Wheel of Samsara reached Archangel tundra.
As if all this was not entertaining, but in Arkhangelsk Samoyed Nenets not perfect, despite the fact that the Nenets Autonomous District with its administrative center in Naryan-Mar is part of the area. Nenets in the last century is actively exported from Novaya Zemlya (pomors called her "womb"), which built the nuclear testing grounds, and they are compact, not raspolzayas beyond their autonomous region in nastoschee currently living in the north-east of Archangel. Interestingly, the cost of intraregional flights in marschrutu Arkhangelsk and Naryan-Mar is not less than the cost of interregional Arkhangelsk-Moscow. Although the distance from Moscow to Naryan-Mar - 1500 km, and from Archangel to Naryan-Mar - 660 km. However, aviaobstanovka unstable, and besides, as on an airplane, in Naryan-Mar, alas, do not get.
Polar date with thrush
Evening in the cafe "The Island" I was drinking tea with his only friend arhangelogorodkoy. Laura. Young buhgaltersha dairy in his 26 years rather provided, drives a black Chevrolet and dreams of the collective dream - to get out of Arkhara somewhere closer to central Russia - Vologda, Moscow or St. Petersburg.
Milk - it's my long, catchy theme. Unlike accounting and labor migration. I do not understand it in centrifuges, Heifers butyrometer and samplers, but traveling to various cities and countries as far as possible try to investigate the local features of the lactiferous. Thus, the Arkhangelsk coast-dwellers brought the famous black-checkered Kholmogory breed cows. As in other regions of Russia, Arkhangelsk vysokoduhovnye cows give milk vysokoduhovnye Arkhangelsk. I tell you, as kote with experience. However LLC Severodvinsk-Milk "in 2009 showed outstanding design extremism, releasing classic classic milk 3.2% fat-term packages in nonclassical radical black. On the one hand, it will be easier to see if the package leaks, on the other side - it will be harder to find in the kitchen at night, so warm in the sun will be stronger.It was so creative course that people from the shelves with ayurvedic products Severodvinsk milkmen at first simply shied away. Still - Black Milk! .. Yes, during the White Nights in White Sea! No you cheerfully smiling cows, clean krynok and emerald alpine meadows. Black-prechernaya cow, which gives the black-prechernoe milk, for which we are paying black-prechernymi money - has drawn on metallurgical thriller. With what do you want to drink it - c core tea, bread and chocolate, but a song about a crow with a corresponding sense of humor? Buyers, by the way, dubbed novelty "milk for the funeral." Design of "atypical" package developed St. Petersburg, but the product was for me another "chip" Archangel.
And finally, a relevant anecdote:
Two fun new Russian poprikalyvatsya decided on a waiter at a new luxury restaurant. Book:
- Tell me you have something exotic?
- We have everything exotic dishes!
- Do you have a black pudding?
The waiter hesitated, and promised to clarify, went to the kitchen, the men sit. Neigh. Some time later the waiter returned and said:
- Unfortunately the Black sausage today no, but there is a "Black Milk".
New Russian surprised, well, and ordered the black milk. To them goes the dense black woman with huge boobs, lacking both the collar is pressed against the breasts and let them drink. When they are already weakened drink, throws them on the floor and leaves. Then one says to the other in exhaustion:
- Damn it's good that they did not have black sausages!
The hotel lobby "White Sea", where I stayed, was decorated four luxurious hours, which somehow shows the time in London, Stockholm and New York and Tokyo. Not in Moscow and Arkhangelsk. Local Time light above the head administrator four dull green numerals. In the center of the wall was placed a wooden bas-relief in the form of a sailing ship. The inscription at the bottom - "Our way is long" - made me think not about the hotel service, but of the alpha rhythm and coming tomorrow to continue the active travel. I hope to Laura this endorsement does not apply, and its goals, it certainly will do!
Mini-Korely: kolokolistka with maxi-effects
With a habit of getting up early I'd make good milkman. At 7 am I was the first visitor to the hotel dining room where a coupon for a breakfast I bestowed not just a plate of buckwheat and apple juice, but the direct ether Olympic pokatushek our skaters in Vancouver.
Prior to the Small Karel hourly shuttle bus № 104 to the bus station (45 minutes, 28 kms.). Entrance to the Museum of wooden architecture of the Pomeranian in the open air - 110rub (70rub students on weekdays). Excursions from 250rub. In the final form of reserve is a complex of small villages, transported here from six districts - Kargopol-Onega, Mezen, Pinezhsky, Dvina, and Vazhsky Pomorski. Built to move to the museum rolled on logs and then re-gathered already in the Small Korel. In total, more than 100 objects - Chopped without a single nail churches, houses, chapels, barns, wells and windmills, in some huts exposed peasant life. "Smoke on the museum grounds is strictly prohibited" - caution on all sides by severe posters. Snowdrifts up to the windows. Horseback riding with bells and became famous swing "BN Yeltsin ". And when the end tea in a thermos, you come to the guest house where "cute Mila" from television advertising gives to drink milk their whole family - there is a samovar, a warm pie with halibut, pies with semushkoy, bulk shanegi, pies, cakes and wickets. Here and pancakes with cloudberry (65rub), and baked apple with cinnamon (45 -), roe (20 -) and herbal tea on the Pomeranian (dog rose, cranberry, Chaga - $ 80 for 500ml).
Opposite the guest house - the bell tower. There I chatted with ekskursovodshey (came from Yaroslavl here - her husband) and colorful Old ladies of the vocal-dance group "Radeyushka", the oldest folk band Archangel. The average age animatorsh - 60 years.Every Saturday and Sunday and on holidays, the accordion North Old ladies sing and dance together and lead walking jauntily old Pomeranian wedding.
Here I met with kolokolihoy "(a neologism for the modern woman-ringer - kolokolistki). Every hour, it beats a 15 (!) Bells, cleansing the soul to all students. They've got a circle with master classes: all the guides - mnogostanochniki - and tourists can breed, and the bells in crimson beat. Lively "grandmother" from "Radeyushki" interrupted the still our conversation about the Pomeranian culture and nature, and asked both marital status and very quickly ... bowed to public kiss. Rules pomor kiss-show are simple: a bustling ethnic ditties if povernesh head to one side for the code word, standing in a pair of back to back - should be kissing. And then, apparently, as Tyko Vylka ...
Hyperborean navigators
According to various pre-Christian sources - the Book of Christmas Carols, "the Indian Rigveda and the Mahabharata, the Iranian Avesta, the legends of the Khanty-mansiytsev, legends Permyaks and Russian epics - our ancestors came from the North. The country, known as Hyperborea - an ancestral home of Russ and the whole Aryan (Nordic) race. Vedas say that the circumpolar, in the realm Byarmiya and Mann, lived first people-giants, and from the summit of Mount Meru overlooking the Milk (White) sea. This was the land of the sun (it is half a year did not go), there were none cold or scorching winds, so the land gave people a bountiful harvest.
Hyperborea, Arktida, the Asgard - the legendary Nordic country, situated "for the north wind Boreas, the habitat of the blessed people Hyperboreans. Artistically gifted, regular visits to the gods northerners spend time in the eternal joy and pious prayers, not knowing the misery and disease. Even death would come to him as a deliverance from a life of satiety, and they experienced everything earthly pleasure, were thrown into the sea. It is believed that before the Flood Hyperborea located on the territory of modern Arctic Ocean, where the climate in those days was a warm, akin to the Mediterranean. All were living peacefully and happily. But once there was a rift with Atlantis - and the two civilizations have gone under water. Many scientists believe all of this fiction, but RAS continues every year and it is officially funded expedition to Seydozeru in search of traces of Hyperborean civilization.
Since the Nenets came from the south of Siberia, normal offspring paranormal Hyperborean can be considered only coast-dwellers, scattered today in the Arkhangelsk region and the Kola Peninsula. The ancestors of ancient Novgorod, assimilated with the Finno-Ugric tribes closest to the Saami and Karelian. Their arable land - the sea. Pomors rebellious nature and nasty: they know not of serfdom, or the Mongol-Tatar yoke, nor corvee and taxes. It was a real Russian America! For the record: the current city Sitka (Alaska), formerly known as New Archangel and was considered the capital of all of Alaska. From coast-dwellers were such a naturalist and pioneers as Lomonosov Dezhnev, Khabarov, atlases, and many other desperate people. Possible, and T. Ermak himself. Good Pomor be any more reliable than GPS-navigator. Of the modern coast-dwellers can be distinguished Alexander Veshnyakov - former chairman of the CEC, now Russia's ambassador to Latvia.
Who are these - Pomorie? Calm, adventurous, talkative (smartly "okayut," as in Vologda, but also and looking surprised), strict in morals, independent people who respect property rights. The high degree of personal freedom, combined with a strong sense of responsibility. Russian vodka before coming here was not. Centenarians were many, unless, of course, did not die in the fishery: the environment was good, active work until old age, a lot of fish and wild berries in the diet all year round and no preservatives. Pomeranian women do not like to be called "broads", they say that they have to say "zhonki" ("broads piles of stuff"). After the baptism of Rus in 988, here in the White Sea, leaving Rusichi who did not accept Christianity. Up until the XIX century, there existed the whole settlement, where practiced pre-Christian faith.But after the split of the Orthodox Church in the XVII century, people left here, did not accept the innovations of Nikon - the Old Believers (and still exists Drevlepravoslavnoj Pomeranian Church).
Most revered saint in pomors - Nicholas saint, patron of sailors. Osvodovets then. "From Kholmogory up Cola thirty-three Nikola (Nicholas Church) - read an old proverb pomor. There was even a specific Pomerania belief that the Trinity - a Saviour, the Virgin and Nicola. A similar cult of St. Nicholas profess, perhaps only in Mozhaisk, where even the City Day is celebrated on the day honoring St. Nicholas. According to legend, Nicholas was at the end of the XIII century besieging Mozhaisk Tatars - with a sword in one hand and a temple to another, drawing the enemies of the Gentiles in the superstitious escape. Thus it here and represent. Some esoteric, art is not afraid to speculate that the figure with a sword and hail can be a Catholic bishop, and perhaps a crusader. Not observe the characteristic Sword (Knight attribute) and 8-carbon Temple (Templar attribute, the temple of the Lord) in the hands of St. Nicholas is impossible.
Pomeranian particular feature was the abundance of non-canonical - wooden carving - of icons in churches, three-dimensional images of the saints. Plane icon-board northerners do not seem to inspire religious respect. Because of similarities in the images of saints with ordinary people, these icons are forbidden, and now this - a great museum piece. Saint Nicholas in 3D-format - no less removal of the brain than the "Yahoo!"
Brings a lot of coast-dwellers with Siberians, considering that in XVI-XVIII centuries. Nearly 40% of the population of Pomerania went to Siberia. In Siberia, they say, is still a lot of the Pomeranian: name of veteran, places, names of the winds on Lake Baikal and the Kolyma, the elements of economic structure, household lexicon.
Very jealous of the historically tolerant pomors are now their neighbors-Nenets. Nenets recognized small people with all the entitlements that status benefits (free education and medicine, housing subsidies, the right to unrestricted fishing than very well enjoy the poachers, etc.). As a result of the 2002 census, lived in Russia about 40 thousand of the Nenets. Coast-dwellers, according the last census counted only about 6 thousand people. Of the indigenous peoples of the Nenets in the Russian North are one of the most numerous. Nevertheless, they just gave concessions, the envy of neighbors.
Despite the dominance of "Pomeranian themes" and related paraphernalia - such as the celebration of pre-Petrine "novolety" 14 (1) September (2010 - the 7519th since the creation of the Pomeranian in the world!) With the Aryan torchlight procession to the water, the lighting of the holiday light boat of happiness (the fire on the raft) and fireworks - from Pomerania Arkhangelsk you're unlikely to encounter. As with the Nenets. Yes, and what they are now pomors if their children paddle in his hands can not keep! And the rest of the Pomeranian villages men often prefer traditional occupation - fishing - forestry. Instead of gay offspring blessed Hyperboreans now firmly hold a putter, and successfully move not karbasah - Skating: Club Vodnik - multiple champion of Russia on hockey. How does this winter sport is associated with water, for me still remains a mystery.
Final touches to the portrait
From M. Corel back in town I drove past the algal plant. Arkhangelsk seasoned seaweed plant. Got off the bus. Interesting. Seafood! "- Zapulsirovalo in the brain. Then I need to get a deep breath and say in one breath a fiery speech about the tremendous benefits of algae ... To begin with, that I am a big fan, there are a variety of other sea foods. This food, in my opinion, more varied, useful, tasty and nutritious than any other. More radically-minded people come to the conclusion that, in essence, human life is derived from these blue-green organisms, so that the basis for an unprecedented variety of plants, animals and stunning complexity of the world around us - yes! - Algae! In such a seemingly primitive organisms, they say, is concentrated universal wisdom. Some scholars even suggest to include the minds of the school curricula algology - the science of algae.
Alas, the museum at the plant was open only to the preliminary (and group) applications, and in the company store were the only dietary supplements, agar jelly, dried kelp, and various cosmetic means. I bought some jars of fucus. It's such gipertselebnaya seaweed used as a seasoning. A major purchase was the extract of Bath Laminaria. Its recommended itself saleswoman. "It removes fatigue, pain, fatigue" - was written in a pretty bottle. "A favorable effect on the skin of the body" - graciously added by a woman behind the counter tone graduate algologist.
Arkhangelsk be fun, not only because of the availability of fresh seafood. Less than an hour's drive (50 km) - and you are at sea. White. Of course, it is not as warm as Black, but invigorates much stronger. Incidentally, these northerners coming south, are the palms, pareos and cocktails, as some decorations, missed a riot of colors, and when returning home, saying that their eyes are like "rinsed".
The White Sea is the city of Severodvinsk - the same "Sevsk" - a city atomic scientists, submariners. Back in Moscow I was going in the same compartment with Nastya - engineer-ecologist from the city. Half a year ago, Nastia found a job in the suburbs - the Sanitary Epidemiological Service in the city of Dubna, a Division of Radiation Control. Parents stayed at home and in the science city, this modest and fragile girl moved on its own, one, one she did not help: find housing on their own, has issued a temporary registration, signed up for an evening fitness and English courses. Diligently works to life is not complaining, though, and misses her parents. The warm nature of the Northern Territory. Suppose that you'll be good!
Tales and profit
Do you know the storyteller Pisahova? Cartoon about an orange you remember? With voice Yevgeny Leonov. "All around - water, one water, top - the sky, the middle - orange tree in bloom!".
The first time pisahovskaya tale was published in 1924 in Arkhangelsk, in the book "on the Northern Dvina. It was a fairy tale, "you do not like, do not listen. Ice cream song. " How pomors winter songs frosts, and then these songs might put in a chest, and after a while to thaw, but to listen.
"On our Arkhangelsk region as all unrighteousness yes slander say that I came up to tell it like it is with us.
All sushshuyu truth. Whatever you say, all - the truth.
Everything around her - fellow countrymen, lie will not give.
For example, the Dvina - in a narrow place thirty-five miles, and a broad - broader than the sea. And we go through it on the ice of the eternal. We and Ledenika there. Nevertheless the people who live ice fishing. Floes from the sea so give chase to hire, who is desirable.
(...)
White bears milk trade (accustomed). White bears seeds yes cigarettes trades. And every bird chirp: polar owls, gulls, eiders, auks, geese, swans, northern eagles, penguins.
The Penguins have Khoshali not found, but come to work - with the hurdy-gurdy go so with a tambourine.
(...)
A brown bear move nastrogo zapreshshen.
According healed ponastavleny pillars and inscriptions on them: "The brown bear go there."
Once a man was carrying flour bag: it was at the top, above Lyavli. That guy and dropped a bag in the woods.
Bear found in the flour and get covered all began in the manner of white. Stashshil boat so arrived in the city: its water so poveteryu bore, and he turned his wheel. To the market rode on an ice floe moved. I thought at first earn one's living seeds yes kvas al shtyami acid, and then dumat, razzhivetsya and moonshine trade begins. Yes, he was recognized. That laugh from it! In water, redeemed! Mokrehonek, fyrkat, and his laughing so with songs robyata drove out of town. For lots of bear cried. Well, our people are good: he mating rolls, sugar, twenty pounds so ordered on holidays for shangami to come. "
Tale "Northern Lights":
"In summer we do day and night light, and we do not sleep. Day work and night Ghulam yes deer vperegonki Begum. And from autumn to winter in preparation. Northern Lights dry them. Spervonachalu something it is not how high shine. Baba let the girls pulled a bath, and robyata with fences. Nadergayut eki bunches! That's it - dernesh, head down oprokinesh - go out, we associate the beams on the ceilings hung and hangs on the ceilings, not dry, not dies.Only in the summer light teryat. Yes, in the summer and not the needs. And the dark time of dying away again.
In winter, other times in the house too hot and stuffy - not breathe, his nose is not cranking, and can not open the door: three hundred degrees of frost! And take the northern lights, warm some water to moisten and zazhgesh. And so light is lit, and air ochishshat, and it smells good, like a pine tree, similar to lily of the valley. The girls in our ladies, dry, northern lights in the braids are, how shining a month. Yes ishsho of starlight napletut on his forehead nalepyat. Passion of how beautiful! Just Andelys!
(...)
The girls in the village will go - the whole village vyzvezdit.
Surviving the northern night, which lasts for six months, a fairy tale, perhaps, is difficult. By the narrator in the North have always treated with great respect and even introduced a special staff positions on the board. During fishing narrator paid two unit: one - for participation in the fishery, the other - for skazyvanie. And that - no tales!
Finally I want to note that the Arkhangelsk region is trying to keep the image of a fantastic edge. Have you heard that the village Solonikha Krasnoborsky area of the Arkhangelsk region is declared All-Russian homeland of Baba-Yaga - "evil forces female with no husband?" In this village seems to be even located a Research Institute of Witchcraft and Wizardry (Research HELP) from a novel by Strugatsky - the Russian equivalent of Hogwarts. For advertising brand birthplace of Baba-Yaga "has long been struggling baboyagovedy from Arkhangelsk, Ivanovo and Yaroslavl regions. But even more mysterious turproekt Arkhangelsk region - the development of the village Vershinino Plesetsk district, Kenozere, the idea of the homeland of Ivan the Fool! Cut down the house of prominent national hero, and organize an annual summer festival Kenozersky durakovina. As anyone, and I then Arkhangelsk more often associated with home turproektov flops.
TOP-10 things to do in the Arkhangelsk:
1. Read fairy tales Pisahova at night.
2. Swim in the White - alter ego Black.
3. Carpenters began to respect by visiting the Small Korely.
4. Buy on the market cloudberries pie with halibut, felt boots and Naryan-Mar venison.
5. Go fishing - by sea from Pomorie. Or play hockey with the "conductors".
6. Listen to an organ concert in the Lutheran church.
7. Choose the photons for the soul: the northern lights (in winter) or white nights (in summer).
8. To go into space, not necessarily go to the nearby Plesetsk - meditate on Solovki.
9. Walking on the promenade: mark angelic faces arhangelogorodok.
10. Go on about. Vaigach or am Kanin Nos.
AROUND: Solovetsky archipelago with a monastery. Kargopol - large branch of the Small Korel. The estuary - ice-hotel and ski resort "robin" in the homeland of northern honey.
LIVE: T-tsa "White Sea" (street Timme, 3) - from 800 rubles. for bed and breakfast in a 2-bed room with private facilities and TV, 1 double room with shower, toilet and breakfast - 1400rub. 2 Double Deluxe - 1900rub, luxury - 2300rub (2010). It is possible to p / board (breakfast and dinner).
Author: cinephil
Talk: http://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?t=94213
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