Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy!

Author: http://forum.awd.ru/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=39326 Talk: http://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?f=462&t=85216 Start: http://travel.awd.ru/content/view/1244/124/ Continued: (Bolivian) October 11 Cusco Cusco we liked. Beautiful area, cozy streets ... Edistvennoe place that we lacked the time allotted. I would like to wander through here a couple of days. Stopped (on a tip from one of the members of the forum) in the monastery of Santa Rosa in the course of 10 minutes from Plaza de Armas. Small neat rooms with privado bano 30 soles (including the extremely austere breakfast). The only disappointment, especially for Compañero, - see the nuns did not succeed. Until noon walk around the city, then went by taxi (80 four-hour trip salts) to the ruins of Pisac. Drove into town itself, to wander about the market - large, but without the expected exotic. They arrived at the ruins. Pleased that you can get to by car almost to the top of the mountain, where the terraces and the remnants of the fortress of the Incas. You can walk almost horizontally, which is especially nice after the experienced gornyashki. When I started to step over the precipice, photo Niko33 I decided to skip further beauty. Compañero told that there around the corner, there is a very dramatic shelf above the canyon, allowing yourself to feel flying over the abyss ... Back to Cuzco at dusk, until we arrived at Saqsaywaman already dark so that the scheduled visit was pointless.Passed. Dinner in a restaurant with an Italian name on the corner of the Plaza de Armas (between the Catedral and the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesus). Nostalgic for a wonderful pasta, which is pleased to Puno, has decided to take this opportunity to break from the permanent rice. To paste any claims. But the sauce! I would call it "collection": there was a feeling as if the day is carefully assembled collection of all the remnants of meat meal, mixed it carefully and make a muck of it my lovely fettuccine. A Compañero de viaje this evening decided to try finally forging. Kui was quite substantial, stuffed with his liver and is generally prepared wonderfully. Good-natured companion would not let me stay hungry this evening. The taste is very Kui reminded rabbit. As a compliment to the order we were served the famous cocktail pisco-Soir - mix Pisco, lemon juice and raw eggs. Light and refreshing. For those who are not familiar with shrill, perhaps even enjoyable. But I have a clean drink sweeter: it is softer, more fragrant, delicate. And the peculiar squeaking weightless taste of spring orchard, of course, unable to resist the onslaught of eggs. October 12 Cusco - Agua Calientes The day before, when caught a taxi from a / c in the city rejoiced get us a van. After the unforgettable night spent between Uyuni and Sucre, I had clear signs of claustrophobia. Therefore, we immediately agreed with the taxi driver about the trip from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo, with stops at all the ruins of the route. So that the driver was not tempted to fit us in a way that made it clear that not just paying for mileage, but for the time - he will be busy from morning till 19 pm ($ 60). The driver drove us an hour before the appointed time (apparently, the proposed price was higher than usual). Waited patiently for an hour. However, our trip began with a detour ingredients. What prevented refuel before the start? Mystery. Stopped in Saqsaywaman. Walls plastered with herds of tourists looked exactly as in the numerous photographs. We decided here not to brake and hit the Chinchero. After Pisac naively believed that I will continue to walk on a horizontal plane. But no. Chinchero sobered. Amazing Inca masonry: wnloadItem & g2_itemId = 33972 "alt =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "title =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right : 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right -width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/> In addition to the terraces, Chinchero remembered the church. All the walls and ceiling are covered with primitive frescoes are very touching, I wish to remove it is prohibited, and a local guard with a stern face constantly vigilant in the rounds of his domain. Then there was a beautiful road to the salt terraces of Salinas. Beautiful view also opens at the entrance to them. Shipment of finished goods: tki.awd.ru / main.php? g2_view = core.DownloadItem & g2_itemId = 33985 "alt =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "title =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy ! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left : 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/> And on the way back had a chance to experience real fear. Places these mountains. Have to go through the narrow serpentine. Drove away from the salt terraces nearby, and suddenly pulled out to meet us round the bend a huge tractor, occupying the entire width of the road. Was taken aback not only by me. Our driver pulled up in fright, then followed by a pause of dead silence. Could hear the creaking as the thoughts in my head a taxi driver. He began to sit back. Insufferable longing to leave the car and watch the isolation from the outside. Machine slowly backed away. I looked with fear towards the abyss ... The fact that not all local drivers feel the size of their cars, we saw as recently as ten minutes ago: Just pyativshis have terraces Salinas driver nearby minibus split rear window of a single tree in that place ... ... Looked with horror at the oncoming tractor on us and feverishly wondered how there with a sense of size at our driver ... And if we fell into the abyss of themselves, then fit a looming monster between our transport ant and rock, or we will fall down, but now with it means ... Time has stretched. Seconds dragged like a clock ... We dopyatilis to a small widening of the road and the tractor still fit ... Uuuffff! In Mora road approaches the top of the terraces. All geometrically verified the beauty of the amphitheater opened immediately. It's nice that you can enjoy it without prior fizzaryadki. n-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border- top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/> While I cut a circle on top of the building, consoling himself that here is better visible linear pattern, Compañero descended into the center of the arena. And without question on his face read that there is power sensitive. Jealous of white envy, coaxing yourself: if the bottom is so strong, then to me that some cried down ... In any case, the feeling of hunger - for sure. Assuming that with time we have strained, did not act up when the taxi driver stopped at a tourist restaurant is clearly at the entrance to Urubumbu. In vain. Fed with a bright green soup sachets Maggie costs sterlet soup. Especially insulting was when it was revealed that, contrary to map LP, go to Ollantaytambo was no more than an hour ... Remains of buildings of the Incas to Ollantaytambo located in the city. To conquer the top of the ruins had not the strength nor I, nor even Compañero, recharge in the arena Moraya ... And before the departure of our train to Aguas Calientes had to pass six hours. Walked at the foot of inkovskih terraces. Compañero examined the fish in the local creek. I'm lying on a bench under a canopy, ukryvshem me from it's spitting rain, admiring the beauty of the terraces, trying to ignore the multi-colored, phosphorescent in the gathering twilight, rain many tourists flocks flowing from stage to stage ... Met in a cafe on the corner Vetideño and av. Ferrocarril an unexpectedly wonderful coffee. Compañero used the Internet to soothe anguish in a long separation, his wife and daughter, and I finally met with her, has been seemingly unattainable, a dream - colorful local men. x; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/> Compañero offered to scout out where the station. Intuition had not deceived him. Map LP again disoriented us. Instead of the alleged 5-10 minutes, we went there at least an hour. RG promised a good meal at the restaurant El Albergue, located near the railway station. The entrance to the restaurant turned out to be a railway platform. The yield on the platform is closed solid metal fence and gates guarded by armed men in the form of the breech. In general, everything looks unassailable. However, a guard readily admits, when he heard the name of the hotel. A small restaurant with open kitchen. Comfortable. Very tasty. And as a digestive - a charming garden patio. Where we prokorotali remaining until the train's departure time, lying in the sun loungers and enjoying the scented evening air in a fresh spring flowers ... especially trying Brugmansia - intoxicate not childish, and thoroughly ousting other delicate flavors. In Aguas Calientes, without departing from the station, responded with the password "hostal", cooed sweet voice, a pretty girl. After a scare in the reports and guidebooks on local prices for everything, twice repeated, hearing the 25 salts. A tiny restaurant with 6 rooms over the tiny bar. Names have not learned, is on the right side of the street Pachacutec a two minute walk up from the Plaza.The rooms are spacious and clean, with baño privado and round the clock hot water. October 13 Machu Picchu Conquer the peak of Huayna Picchu, my plan was not, so our day began at different times. Compañero started at 4.30. My internal alarm triggered at half-past five, at 6.30 am was at a bus stop with a ticket to Machu Picchu in his hands. All climbers are already taken, the stop was no more than five people. Twenty minutes of ascent through a dense morning fog and I at the entrance. No Shmona was not. My awesome fotoryukzak interest in the protection did not cause. This was followed by a strange procedure. Ticket to the MP consists of two parts. Call them conditional pass and control. Talon contain proprietary information and the control part, in addition, contains lines that need to enter his personal data, the Curricula. Without filling does not admit. Filled. The Comptroller has left his card, and filled some remained with me. Why I painted the cloud of information about yourself to yourself, do not understand. Machu Picchu is impressive. Especially beautiful in early morning, when the clouds and mist floating between the surrounding peaks. ezy and delight! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px ; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/> At a leisurely, thoughtful examination of the beauties is enough and a half hours. Just a couple of hours to meditate there, enjoying the wonderful scenery and glancing at plotneyuschuyu lot of visitors. ... Around the club organized tourists, mostly Germans. Lean men, consisting of some tendons, and tough lady. Struck the feet of those who were dressed in shorts. The visible portion of skin covered with insect bites - purple mounds with black vershinkami.So podevshie Germans unknown insects in my past life, apparently, were military engineers - such carefully drawn and the serried ranks were bites from the line of shorts to sneakers ... In addition to travel, live in Machu Picchu and other living beings: And so phlegmatic that allows him to come to him almost right up: At noon, left the city of the Incas. The output of the gas was subjected to an attack - so bourgeois poured insecticide that between the output and the bus stop stood the dense chemical cloud. In Aguas Calientes in a cafe with an open veranda overlooking a railway line, drank delicious coffee. Curious about the toilet in this cafe - huge, with a spacious shower: I think it is convenient for explorers of Huayna Picchu. Smiling chatty waiter tried to shortchange me twice. Brought to account. The sum was included tourist tax. No lot in a little - 30%. About this trick I read on the forum LP. How is it taught by experienced comrades, just told the waiter that it is illegal. He had no objection brought a new version of the bill. Still somehow did not converge with the proposed amount. Asked to bring the account menu. Presentiment did not deceive me - prices vary widely. The waiter apologized for the mistake and brought a third version of the account. His Norgeya Tenzing as faithful Penelope waited near the water. Along the river bank arranged cute little square with comfortable benches and lovely flower gardens with delicate white and pink hibiscus and flame-red ekpressivnymi Strelitz.River rushing between boulders nice streamlined shape, not banal, like a pebble, and more complex, vaguely reminiscent of Chinese tayhushi (but with no internal holes). Secluded place, but nobody around me was not. Decided to give the legs an opportunity to breathe, just took off a sock with one, as I see in passing by the bus flashed a familiar hat - Compañero! Well, that will breathe in another time ... Showed dear companion, where you can eat good coffee. Me there had not yet forgotten. Correct score brought the first try. However, to relax in Aguas Calientes can not. In the evening after dinner at a nearby restaurant history repeated itself. First in the score, including the notorious tourist tax, and then copied to the right, but brought only half believe the date ... "Oh, yes! That bill. She then suddenly got stuck ... " In Ollantaytambo got into the car to the first taxi driver came up to us. And finally, we were lucky. Nice car and best driver in Peru and Bolivia: the car kept neat and very good speed. The road to Cuzco some fun. In the evening after a shower she saw that a couple of seconds of fresh air for your feet have left their mark. It was covered already familiar with neat rows of tubercles purple with black tops.Local insect - true ninja! I never saw, who managed a few moments ponagryzt these series. Bites are not disturbed, but healed almost six weeks.