Author: http://forum.awd.ru/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=39326
Talk: http://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?f=462&t=85216
Start: http://travel.awd.ru/content/view/1244/124/
Continued: (Bolivian)
October 11
Cusco
Cusco we liked. Beautiful area, cozy streets ... Edistvennoe place that we lacked the time allotted. I would like to wander through here a couple of days.
Stopped (on a tip from one of the members of the forum) in the monastery of Santa Rosa in the course of 10 minutes from Plaza de Armas. Small neat rooms with privado bano 30 soles (including the extremely austere breakfast). The only disappointment, especially for Compañero, - see the nuns did not succeed.
Until noon walk around the city, then went by taxi (80 four-hour trip salts) to the ruins of Pisac. Drove into town itself, to wander about the market - large, but without the expected exotic. They arrived at the ruins. Pleased that you can get to by car almost to the top of the mountain, where the terraces and the remnants of the fortress of the Incas. You can walk almost horizontally, which is especially nice after the experienced gornyashki.
When I started to step over the precipice,
photo Niko33
I decided to skip further beauty. Compañero told that there around the corner, there is a very dramatic shelf above the canyon, allowing yourself to feel flying over the abyss ...
Back to Cuzco at dusk, until we arrived at Saqsaywaman already dark so that the scheduled visit was pointless.Passed.
Dinner in a restaurant with an Italian name on the corner of the Plaza de Armas (between the Catedral and the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesus). Nostalgic for a wonderful pasta, which is pleased to Puno, has decided to take this opportunity to break from the permanent rice. To paste any claims. But the sauce! I would call it "collection": there was a feeling as if the day is carefully assembled collection of all the remnants of meat meal, mixed it carefully and make a muck of it my lovely fettuccine. A Compañero de viaje this evening decided to try finally forging. Kui was quite substantial, stuffed with his liver and is generally prepared wonderfully. Good-natured companion would not let me stay hungry this evening. The taste is very Kui reminded rabbit.
As a compliment to the order we were served the famous cocktail pisco-Soir - mix Pisco, lemon juice and raw eggs. Light and refreshing. For those who are not familiar with shrill, perhaps even enjoyable. But I have a clean drink sweeter: it is softer, more fragrant, delicate. And the peculiar squeaking weightless taste of spring orchard, of course, unable to resist the onslaught of eggs.
October 12
Cusco - Agua Calientes
The day before, when caught a taxi from a / c in the city rejoiced get us a van. After the unforgettable night spent between Uyuni and Sucre, I had clear signs of claustrophobia. Therefore, we immediately agreed with the taxi driver about the trip from Cuzco to Ollantaytambo, with stops at all the ruins of the route. So that the driver was not tempted to fit us in a way that made it clear that not just paying for mileage, but for the time - he will be busy from morning till 19 pm ($ 60).
The driver drove us an hour before the appointed time (apparently, the proposed price was higher than usual). Waited patiently for an hour. However, our trip began with a detour ingredients. What prevented refuel before the start? Mystery.
Stopped in Saqsaywaman. Walls plastered with herds of tourists looked exactly as in the numerous photographs. We decided here not to brake and hit the Chinchero. After Pisac naively believed that I will continue to walk on a horizontal plane. But no. Chinchero sobered.
Amazing Inca masonry:
wnloadItem & g2_itemId = 33972 "alt =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "title =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right : 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right -width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
In addition to the terraces, Chinchero remembered the church. All the walls and ceiling are covered with primitive frescoes are very touching, I wish to remove it is prohibited, and a local guard with a stern face constantly vigilant in the rounds of his domain.
Then there was a beautiful road to the salt terraces of Salinas. Beautiful view also opens at the entrance to them.
Shipment of finished goods:
tki.awd.ru / main.php? g2_view = core.DownloadItem & g2_itemId = 33985 "alt =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "title =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy ! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left : 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
And on the way back had a chance to experience real fear. Places these mountains. Have to go through the narrow serpentine. Drove away from the salt terraces nearby, and suddenly pulled out to meet us round the bend a huge tractor, occupying the entire width of the road. Was taken aback not only by me. Our driver pulled up in fright, then followed by a pause of dead silence. Could hear the creaking as the thoughts in my head a taxi driver. He began to sit back. Insufferable longing to leave the car and watch the isolation from the outside. Machine slowly backed away. I looked with fear towards the abyss ...
The fact that not all local drivers feel the size of their cars, we saw as recently as ten minutes ago: Just pyativshis have terraces Salinas driver nearby minibus split rear window of a single tree in that place ...
... Looked with horror at the oncoming tractor on us and feverishly wondered how there with a sense of size at our driver ... And if we fell into the abyss of themselves, then fit a looming monster between our transport ant and rock, or we will fall down, but now with it means ... Time has stretched. Seconds dragged like a clock ... We dopyatilis to a small widening of the road and the tractor still fit ... Uuuffff!
In Mora road approaches the top of the terraces. All geometrically verified the beauty of the amphitheater opened immediately. It's nice that you can enjoy it without prior fizzaryadki.
n-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border- top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
While I cut a circle on top of the building, consoling himself that here is better visible linear pattern, Compañero descended into the center of the arena. And without question on his face read that there is power sensitive. Jealous of white envy, coaxing yourself: if the bottom is so strong, then to me that some cried down ...
In any case, the feeling of hunger - for sure. Assuming that with time we have strained, did not act up when the taxi driver stopped at a tourist restaurant is clearly at the entrance to Urubumbu. In vain. Fed with a bright green soup sachets Maggie costs sterlet soup. Especially insulting was when it was revealed that, contrary to map LP, go to Ollantaytambo was no more than an hour ...
Remains of buildings of the Incas to Ollantaytambo located in the city. To conquer the top of the ruins had not the strength nor I, nor even Compañero, recharge in the arena Moraya ... And before the departure of our train to Aguas Calientes had to pass six hours. Walked at the foot of inkovskih terraces. Compañero examined the fish in the local creek. I'm lying on a bench under a canopy, ukryvshem me from it's spitting rain, admiring the beauty of the terraces, trying to ignore the multi-colored, phosphorescent in the gathering twilight, rain many tourists flocks flowing from stage to stage ...
Met in a cafe on the corner Vetideño and av. Ferrocarril an unexpectedly wonderful coffee. Compañero used the Internet to soothe anguish in a long separation, his wife and daughter, and I finally met with her, has been seemingly unattainable, a dream - colorful local men.
x; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
Compañero offered to scout out where the station. Intuition had not deceived him. Map LP again disoriented us. Instead of the alleged 5-10 minutes, we went there at least an hour. RG promised a good meal at the restaurant El Albergue, located near the railway station. The entrance to the restaurant turned out to be a railway platform. The yield on the platform is closed solid metal fence and gates guarded by armed men in the form of the breech. In general, everything looks unassailable. However, a guard readily admits, when he heard the name of the hotel.
A small restaurant with open kitchen. Comfortable. Very tasty. And as a digestive - a charming garden patio. Where we prokorotali remaining until the train's departure time, lying in the sun loungers and enjoying the scented evening air in a fresh spring flowers ... especially trying Brugmansia - intoxicate not childish, and thoroughly ousting other delicate flavors.
In Aguas Calientes, without departing from the station, responded with the password "hostal", cooed sweet voice, a pretty girl. After a scare in the reports and guidebooks on local prices for everything, twice repeated, hearing the 25 salts. A tiny restaurant with 6 rooms over the tiny bar. Names have not learned, is on the right side of the street Pachacutec a two minute walk up from the Plaza.The rooms are spacious and clean, with baño privado and round the clock hot water.
October 13
Machu Picchu
Conquer the peak of Huayna Picchu, my plan was not, so our day began at different times. Compañero started at 4.30. My internal alarm triggered at half-past five, at 6.30 am was at a bus stop with a ticket to Machu Picchu in his hands. All climbers are already taken, the stop was no more than five people. Twenty minutes of ascent through a dense morning fog and I at the entrance. No Shmona was not. My awesome fotoryukzak interest in the protection did not cause. This was followed by a strange procedure. Ticket to the MP consists of two parts. Call them conditional pass and control. Talon contain proprietary information and the control part, in addition, contains lines that need to enter his personal data, the Curricula. Without filling does not admit. Filled. The Comptroller has left his card, and filled some remained with me. Why I painted the cloud of information about yourself to yourself, do not understand.
Machu Picchu is impressive. Especially beautiful in early morning, when the clouds and mist floating between the surrounding peaks.
ezy and delight! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px ; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
At a leisurely, thoughtful examination of the beauties is enough and a half hours. Just a couple of hours to meditate there, enjoying the wonderful scenery and glancing at plotneyuschuyu lot of visitors.
... Around the club organized tourists, mostly Germans. Lean men, consisting of some tendons, and tough lady. Struck the feet of those who were dressed in shorts. The visible portion of skin covered with insect bites - purple mounds with black vershinkami.So podevshie Germans unknown insects in my past life, apparently, were military engineers - such carefully drawn and the serried ranks were bites from the line of shorts to sneakers ...
In addition to travel, live in Machu Picchu and other living beings:
And so phlegmatic that allows him to come to him almost right up:
At noon, left the city of the Incas.
The output of the gas was subjected to an attack - so bourgeois poured insecticide that between the output and the bus stop stood the dense chemical cloud.
In Aguas Calientes in a cafe with an open veranda overlooking a railway line, drank delicious coffee. Curious about the toilet in this cafe - huge, with a spacious shower: I think it is convenient for explorers of Huayna Picchu. Smiling chatty waiter tried to shortchange me twice. Brought to account. The sum was included tourist tax. No lot in a little - 30%. About this trick I read on the forum LP. How is it taught by experienced comrades, just told the waiter that it is illegal. He had no objection brought a new version of the bill. Still somehow did not converge with the proposed amount. Asked to bring the account menu. Presentiment did not deceive me - prices vary widely. The waiter apologized for the mistake and brought a third version of the account.
His Norgeya Tenzing as faithful Penelope waited near the water. Along the river bank arranged cute little square with comfortable benches and lovely flower gardens with delicate white and pink hibiscus and flame-red ekpressivnymi Strelitz.River rushing between boulders nice streamlined shape, not banal, like a pebble, and more complex, vaguely reminiscent of Chinese tayhushi (but with no internal holes).
Secluded place, but nobody around me was not. Decided to give the legs an opportunity to breathe, just took off a sock with one, as I see in passing by the bus flashed a familiar hat - Compañero! Well, that will breathe in another time ...
Showed dear companion, where you can eat good coffee. Me there had not yet forgotten. Correct score brought the first try.
However, to relax in Aguas Calientes can not. In the evening after dinner at a nearby restaurant history repeated itself. First in the score, including the notorious tourist tax, and then copied to the right, but brought only half believe the date ... "Oh, yes! That bill. She then suddenly got stuck ... "
In Ollantaytambo got into the car to the first taxi driver came up to us. And finally, we were lucky. Nice car and best driver in Peru and Bolivia: the car kept neat and very good speed. The road to Cuzco some fun.
In the evening after a shower she saw that a couple of seconds of fresh air for your feet have left their mark. It was covered already familiar with neat rows of tubercles purple with black tops.Local insect - true ninja! I never saw, who managed a few moments ponagryzt these series. Bites are not disturbed, but healed almost six weeks.
October 14
Lima - Pisco
Flew to Lima first flight. In the monastery, ordered us a taxi at 4.30. Not arrived. I was worried - there are great chances to catch a wheelbarrow on the streets at such an early hour? "... Great. And the streets are full of cars, and check-in is started one hour later than stated time.
In Lima, left luggage at the Maria Luisa, a very tasty meal in a beautiful restaurant on the corner of av. Jose Larco and Schell (pastries there's just magic!) And went to the bus station Cruz del Sur. Like today to get to Pisco, hoping the evening to go to Paracas, and in the morning to go to the islands of Ballestas. At the bus station were at noon. The next flight at 16.30. To lose four hours in Lima did not want to quite. Quickly prosherstila LP. Ah! Here are a promised six flights a day from Ormeno. And there is a couple of blocks away.
Quarters, however, are such that we walked 40 minutes. Again, bummer! The next flight at noon tomorrow. Well, that will have to catch a taxi.
In the morning, when I get out of a / c to Miraflores, conducted reconnaissance: the taxi driver had agreed to $ 90. But then we had hoped on the bus. Now, however, other options are not in sight. Now, however, all taxi drivers in one voice pulled strange song: "Tak is also far away!" "Well, we know - 200 km. How much money do you want? "" Do not ... far away ... "The track builds up around us tube of a car stopped, the drivers swirled around me and all at once, and loudly shouting ... But the ride did not want nobody, and even the price tag is not dubbed ...
After half an hour of this madness suddenly a sentence - should go to the bus company's Union, where 10 minutes will leave the bus. Thought it was a divorce. Dovezut now have to pay for delivery to the place, but it turns out that the flight is tomorrow at noon. "No! No! 10 minutes! "Well, no choice is still not clear, let's go.
Indeed, the buses run between the Union of Lima and Ikoyi almost in the city: every 10-15 minutes. Within five minutes we left and after 4 hours were in Pisco. The bus stops on the route, and at the bus stop waiting for the taxi drivers. Another 10 minutes later we stood on the dusty Plaza de Armas.
Do not have time to do, and one breath, as had been attacked by an active travel agent. We call this nimble Mr. 008.Sent it in a certain direction and went to Hostal La Reserva. The rooms are spacious, very nicely furnished, baño privado available. The only negative - no windows faced the street, and covered patio, so the room dark. The girl at the reception announced a nestrashny price tag. I gently drew her attention to the fact that we take two numbers as well as the beautiful eyes of my companion. The young lady turned her head, Compañero lifted eyelashes and looked into her eyes. Room prices fell by 10 salts.
In this case, what was our women's dialogue, Compañero not know (does not speak Spanish).
Do not have time to get acquainted with their baño, appeared as Mr. 008, sent from the Plaza de Armas. He was on our trail! Since we still need to somehow get to the Ballestas, why not talk to this persistent ... The starting price was announced a $ 50 per person. Funny. I suddenly woke up in the Latin American expression.  After a stormy dialogue, paid 75 for two salts and took an oath not to divulge trade secrets to other participants travel. It was necessary to pass the remainder of the day. What's behind the doors of the hotel anguish, we saw all the windows of a taxi ... The scent of a 008-second was a dog. He felt that some more salt can earn. Sympathetically inquired with our plans. Compañero wanted to swim in the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Yes, no question! Taxi to the different places in Paracas, waiting an hour and return 35 salts. Good.
Nice road runs along the coast. As we approach the Paracas color of the water from the dreary gray becomes turquoise. However, swimming is still not like: the purity, clarity and condition of the bottom left much to be desired.But here's a couple of pelicans flew in, and swimming has been forgotten ...
In classical ballet it is the PA called Grand Cabriole a la Seconde:
And then came the trio of pelicans. I would like to write is, finally, a beautiful melodious word pas de trois. But no! This was not a dance threesome.It was a powerful passage ekadrili heavy bombers! And this power was more impressive than some lightweight pas de trois. Massive black birds flew slowly, very low over the water, and incredibly in sync ... "Russian Knights" smoke to the side.
And I'm with them - at this exciting time, I discovered that I had forgotten my photo bank in luggage left in Lima. From what I was going to go to tomorrow's meeting with animals ???!! Already took aim to bite your own elbow ... but my good Compañero not left in the lurch, shared his CF.
Having enjoyed photography, sadly went back. Very reluctant to leave the water and the birds should not have to stop in Pisco! It is necessary to the bus stop Union immediately go to Paracas! Entertainment here is not much, but the eye is much nicer blue water than gray dust and barracks Pisco.
In Pisco neatly bypassed all streets and alleys around the center looking for a place for dinner. Met with several cafes and sweet pastries, but wanted the meat. My companion. I still warm up pretty Lim chocolate cake. Hope to meet with the meat, slowly but inexorably dying. Finally on the horizon BBQ, near, and saw and treasured word pollo on the signboard. Compañero fourth week dreaming of the chicken entirely. Finally, the last day of our trip, he met his dream. The waitress said she had no such utensils wherever it could fit. Compañero agreed to a half. We waited for food, whiling away time in the beautiful cold Kuskeney ... After a while the waitress came and asked if we will not allow her to share this portion of the two plates, ordered not fit on one ... and soon brought the two great dishes with meat, potatoes and mountains lettuce ... Two big bottles of beer and delicious food are Mont Blanc, we paid 20 salts.
October 15
Ballestas
In the morning our agent 008 seated customers in four groups of taxis to and sent to the Paracas. The more we saw of him.
In Paracas taxi driver brought us four on the dock, and soon some people have placed us and many other people in the convoy in pairs. Remembered pioneer childhood. The last time was paired with a boy in a column in ... oh, it was in another life ...
No no tickets or proof of payment, we never asked. Long or a short is, finally, our convoy was sent to the ship.
Ship was at a very high speed. On such hats and caps as protection of persons from the sun is meaningless. They are either blown away or roll outward. They sailed to the islands for nearly an hour. Then 20 minutes of slow progress around the island (need to sit down at the left side while moving!).
Come back! I'll forgive you ...
Not in this life, baby:
rgin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; "/> 
Pooooberegis!
: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
0px; "/> 
As expected, we saw and sea lions and penguins and pelicans and other birds unknown to me.
However, for a total of waiting on the pier, the path from it to the islands and back took nearly three hours (and that's without taking into account the road from Lima!), And saw birds and animals in 20 minutes ... Compañero called it a divorce. Argued he had nothing, but those 20 minutes, gave me great pleasure.
Upon returning to the pier reached by shuttle bus (1.5 hydrochloric acid) to the fishing village of San Andres, and quietly, without fuss and hustle enjoyed birdwatching.
-Bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; "/> Grand Cabriole a la Seconde in a more elegant design:
y Bolivia: blood and tears and joy! "title =" Peru-Bolivia: The blood and tears and joy! "style =" margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border- bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; "/>
It was a sunny day, there was absolute calm. Compañero the stones crept closer to the birds. And suddenly, unexpectedly and suddenly the water has risen by 40 centimeters. Baptism of the Pacific Ocean took place.
And, obviously, was not unpleasant:
On the local pier, which is arranged cutting fish, pelicans quite tame. They walk around between the cutting table, their sludge as domestic ducks.
Lunch freshest fried fish restaurant in the coastal Gloria. Entered a local musician. Accompanying himself pumpkin treated as a washboard (ie, if we draw on this micro-washboard stick, it makes a rattling sound), he sang the song compassionate. For the first time in my life I felt sorry that I have no camera. Is the absolute absence and hearing voices and I met for the first time. This was a reference zero. At the next table local lads had the imprudence to throw him a coin. Musician inspired tightened the second song.In Compañero for the first trip a little rosy cheeks, he left the fish and went out a smoke ...
... Quickly caught a taxi, bus Union quickly came to Lima. By this time it turned out that during the two-hour voyage, we had overheated. I'm horribly burned face, at Compañero skin is more stable, but the baked head: it nauseated and sleepy. The bus distance between seats is smaller than ever. I usually put a backpack on the floor at his feet, but this bus he pushed his way between the seats. Had to put him to his knees. It was very crowded. Backpack oppressed my breast ... He was literally crushed me. There was nothing to breathe. Burnt face was flushed. I was breathless. Had to wake dozed off Compañero. Asked him to stuff a backpack on the top shelf. Pushes do not shove, but due diligence bore fruit - a backpack rested on the top shelf of the opposite row. He was lying in front of me. Sat there, staring at him ... and face was flushed ... wet towel and wiped it with a damp cloth. Took her napkin from the face, raised her eyes to a backpack - a shelf is empty. The bus stands at some wayside station. It was hard to believe your eyes, but the backpack was not ... How was it possible for those 3-4 seconds, until the person who rubbed cloth, pull out the backpack, so painstakingly squeezed into a narrow shelf, and make the salon ... Wizards, magicians, masters of their craft!
I lost not only passionately loved finansovoemkih fotoigrushek, but a passport. 22 days, I wore it in the waist pouch, and only in this unfortunate day, just half an hour ago, put it in a backpack ... Before the flight home had less than a day. Return to their homeland has become a ghostly ...
Police, the bus was going to invite no one. Us Compañero unloaded at the station, which happened to Chincha, and the bus set off. Compañero barely had time to collect the remaining items in the cabin.
Found the lady at the station responsible for working with clients, she went with us to the police. There was a protocol, forcing more and to pay for it. Employees of bus company provided us with paper for further travel to Lima. In Lima, arrived late at night. On the Internet, find the address and appearance of our embassy.
October 16
Lima
In the morning went to the consulate to the alleged discovery - at ten o'clock. Consular officers do not pace yourself busy. Work there 3 days a week for 2 hours a day.I am incredibly lucky that this particular day was a worker, and worked in the morning. We must pay tribute to - consulate employees were friendly, the procedure is debugged and short-lived. Possibly speed things up a certificate from the police and a copy of a stolen passport. Needed 2 more photos. I took the precaution of along for the ride, but all the eggs gently folded into one basket - fotoryukzak. The consulate told us where the nearest studio. There's pictures done in 10 minutes ... In 12 out of the consulate with a certificate in hand.
Went to the center of Lima. But, probably, depressed mood of all that has happened - we did not like Lima, but the truth, and we saw not a lot - Plaza de Armas and the surrounding area. Wandered around in a fruitless search for a cozy place where one could have a meal before a long journey, and traveled to Miraflores to a favorite restaurant on the corner mentioned.
Home faced a long road. Add to a tiny jar of 5 ml oil for the treatment of solid burnt face. Alert employees Aeroportovskiy screening do not miss this weapon of international terrorism. Argued that this volume is far from a resolution of 100 ml, which is not liquid, that is, after all, no makeup - it's medicine for the treatment of burns, which are here now! on his face! - Have not helped. Jar of 5 mL was confiscated. Terrorist attack prevented. By the time of landing at Sheremetyevo skin without due care was covered with cracks ...
At passport control asked the immigration paper. It is, of course, stolen along with a passport. Pogranichnitsa checked in the computer, quickly find the information on the date of entry. Then she took a tiny scrap of paper has written 10 letters of my name. With your $ 15 for the service! For what? Registration fee.
Finally, distressed senior stewardess KLM - it hamila me 2 hours as punishment for trying to change seats at a nearby leisure chair without her written permission!
... I was afraid to 7-hour wait in airport in Amsterdam. Even niderlandskuyu has issued a visa, remaining in a stolen passport. But, contrary to my fears, seven hours at the airport flew almost unnoticed. Thank you, Compañero, for the nice company!
|