Prelude.
I would like to warn you. Claimed the title will be. But not all at once. The main passion - the Bolivian side.
The traditional route - clockwise: Arequipa - Arequipa (Part 2) - Colca - Chivay - Kabanakonde - Sillustani - Uros - Copacabana - La Paz - Solar de Uyuni. Lagoon - Uyuni - Sucre - La Paz - Cusco - Machu Picchu - Pisco - Paracas - Ballestas
Attendance: I Compañero - companion, found by the Forum for 3 weeks before departure.
In order not to waste precious time on a trip that you can do at home before departure were booked almost all the hotels, bought tickets a / k Aerosur (La Paz, Sucre and La Paz-Cuzco) and train tickets Aguas Calientes-Ollantaytambo, Ollantaytambo.
We flew to Lima KLM. Was a long flight. The airline did not enjoy. And with each shoulder more and more distressed. Departure at 6 am, ie, sleepless night before the flight. We did not have no pillows, no blankets, take a nap in the good. Light is not dimmed. Fed frozen sandwiches.
Airport in Amsterdam is huge. Yet arrived from the arrivals area to the relegation zone, smoked a couple of times already and it's time to Lima. Zone of personal inspection, among others patrolled with police dog. The dog came over and gently buried her in my belly. I responded to her friendly smile. "Do you have the cash. - Sternly told me the master of the form. - A dog shows where. "" Yes, of course, I have cash (in the lap bag). "Go to the police." Bewildered passed. Black woman in uniform led me to some deserted nook. "Show." Revealed. "Go." The amount that I was carrying with him, well viewed by the thickness of the bag. This meager stack of banknotes is quite obviously not enough for bulk purchases of drugs ... And remains unexplained why they staged the circus with trained animals.
In the airplane door neighbors were a nice elderly couple Peruvians. The first attempts to translate its Spanish beginnings of the passive form an active one. The neighbors have been patient while I wade through the end of words - in Spanish, even more than we do, all declensions and conjugations. In general, primitive things, and managed to convey and understand ... But I did not last for long. The second day without sleep soon did their dirty deed: to turn suffering into an amoeba. Head nalilas lead and refused to sleep as well as to work: could not read or watch or listen to music ... and it's for insanely long 14 hours ...
Comment Compañero o KLM: "Styuardesy so terrible that I really wanted to ask to slow down, and get nafig there. Wake up when you wake shavat their ice cream sandwich, and carefully bent over to see you dinosaur was not ice. So I tried not to wake up ... "
Landed. Immediately followed by the expected attack taxi drivers. One particularly persistent fellow offered to hold office until the airline. We had to buy tickets for tomorrow. In Arequipa fly only aircraft airline LAN. Tried to book tickets still at home through their website, but our credit is not passed. Houses could be (if not a problem with credit cards) to buy a ticket for $ 118, here we were asked to fork out for 198. There was no choice.
The outskirts of Lima recalled Kathmandu - the same 2-3-storey concrete boxes without architectural extravagances. But apparently, the criminal situation is tense. At the entrances to the rare shops set lattice door. Trade, without opening those doors. Ie through the lattice window of viewing, through the lattice is commodity-money exchange.
Then the road began to flow along the ocean shore. The ocean here looks to be extremely unfriendly: the heavy, lead-colored, with a dull gray sky above him. Cheerless landscape was the last straw - my stomach rebelled against the two-day violence against the body. We had a couple of times to stop, prodyshatsya cool ocean air.But the level of the hotel met with the same dreary menu KLM ...
The hotel has booked more at home. In the coastal tourist district of Miraflores in Lima. Maria-Luisa. Rooms clean, with everything you need, 70 soles ($ 24) for the single (and the money in advance!). True, the drain in the shower worked badly, had to stand ankle-deep in other people's germs. But with that either I was lucky, or a tradition in these parts like this - so it was on all our routes. Hall, a kaput (can be repaired?), But free internet and very friendly staff. Near the hotel, nice restaurant, supermarket and Metro Park. Compañero to explore the terrain, and I had to go to bed.
September 25
Arequipa
Early in the morning once again went to a / n. Registering with LAN automatic. Several racks and pretty representative of the company, helping to cope with a gun. Remains the only baggage. Everything is going very fast.
In the airport cafe waiter greeted a smile in 38 teeth. Having received an order for a cup of coffee, a smile turned off, and more our table for him did not exist. Coffee delicious. It soon became clear that it is - a rare phenomenon in these parts.
Screening almost was not. On board the aircraft climbed armed with bottles of water ... Hop not noticed - have soared, already landing. On board met with the local concept of coffee: nasty drink with sour-flavored charcoal, reminding instant coffee since the Iron Curtain. But much worse. It turned out - it's possible!
Arequipa after Lima seemed neat and comfortable. Book a room in La Casa de Los Pinguinos ($ 18 for a single.). Angelina, thanks for the tip-off! One of the best hotels of the trip. Spacious lounge, comfortable rooms, an extensive library and even a video library, the best breakfast of the trip (although under the guise of serving instant coffee drink here, "Spike" with Chinese ancestry). And incredibly friendly, ready to help around the mistress of Alexander. Compañero claims that Dutch: "is as beautiful as a stewardess KLM, just a good man."
Alexander spoke in English. Compañero, seeing that Spanish gives me a hard, offered to switch to English. And then it turned out an unexpected circumstance. Relatively intense (about 2 hours a day) in the last month the Spanish lessons buried my English. This is especially surprising because the Spanish course I have been in English.
Threw away their belongings, and went to get acquainted with Arequipa.
Apparently, this day was a holiday. Central Plaza de Armas was filled with ornate children. Swarthy angels fluttered among the pigeons around the fountain.
I like to shoot kids, but it was obviously not my day.
Fought an hour and a half with a camera, and a kind, had to capitulate. However fotodusha demanded a rematch, it was necessary for someone to avenge the defeat. To whom, if not for the good my fellow travelers. Masterpieces of portrait photography has not happened, but nice images from the category of "I drink Kuskenyu in Arequipa," remained in the memory.
On the second floor, encircling the area in the gallery are several restaurants.Admiring the wonderful view, dine, meet local beer is quite impregnation, and Peruvian music.
And they went to the monastery Santa Catalina. The best pictures do not lie: he is such a captivating, charming ...
With pleasure wandered there until closing. And the output came to a demonstration of workers in the field of leisure services. This day, it turns out, was declared the Day of Tourism. Travel agencies and educational institutions corresponding profile put on a demonstration of the dancers in national costumes.Labor service members serving enthusiastically, "with a twinkle."
Two hours of intoxication photography with music and dancing ...
However, it was necessary to engage and organize onward travel. In particular, a tour of Colca Canyon. We wanted to get to Kabanakonde, and the next morning to see condors with nezatoptannoy site for Huambu. Standard version - it's Canyon to return to Arequipa. The cost of this pleasure was $ 150. But with our plans for further travel to Puno, on the standard we lost a few hours. The report featured Angelina cost of taxi from Arequipa to Puno $ 50. Simple arithmetic exercises brought to the figure of 200 bucks, if you drive out of the canyon immediately in Puno. However, local operators had their own views on their labor, and we've heard numbers from 350 up to $ 800. And no one would agree to ride out Kabanakonde Huambe! We were not ready for such profiles, and decided to defer the problem until tomorrow: they wanted to go to the lagoon Solinas as acclimatization training to the canyon. Spend a day at 3500 and return to sleep for two thousand ...And we had hoped, without intermediaries, to agree on a trip to Canyon directly with the driver, if he is to us like it.
Returning in the evening at the hotel, pleased to see two steps away from the Penguins dancing club. Just prior to the trip looked several Latin American movies and was fascinated platikoy tel. I wanted to see, it was a reflection of reality or simply a great work of choreographers. "I'm already out of this age" - cut Compañero, barely stand up for thirty. Inspirational reminestsentsii on "Oliluy in forty-three kindle in discos, not only LA, but Bhutan (!!!)" not helped. Compañero remained stern, cold, and positiveness.
September 26.
Arequipa
Early morning quickly caught a taxi driver found the card to say what we want. Announced price tag (20 salts per hour) was easier to expected, and agreed without haggling. On the outskirts of Arequipa a traditional (for reports) The solicitation of gasoline. Carrier asked not to be too much, so the butt did not.
We drove for a while, and suddenly I see the signs "Jura", and "by N km Chivay. Dumb pause ...
- Por que??? How to Chivay?! he is in the north! but we need the east ??!!!... Laguna de Solinas in the east!.
- We go to the Reserva de Solinas.
- Why?!
- All go there
- We - not all. We need not Reserva, and Laguna de Solinas. Hey, driver, turned to hell!
He turned, and how long, whether short, stopped ... the hotel.
- By the lagoon is not my car will pass.
- Get money!
- I bought gasoline, and spent it.
- It cares about your gasoline? We paid for that?
- No Money ...
- We go to the tourist police!
Continuing for another ten minutes as a productive dialogue, and recognizing that the interior cab we do not intend to leave, drove prefer the police. Police initially took the side of a taxi driver: "Well, he really has spent ... Well, his car would not really traveled on those bad roads ... "And yet, my initial Spanish, though not without difficulty and stress, but it will be enough to convince the police that the taxi driver would need to reflect on the road and the possibility of his car before the start for us in an unnecessary way. And in this case, we paid for that? For loss of time and opportunity to see the lagoon?
Incidentally, none of the tourist officer (!) Police did not say in any language other than Spanish.
When it came to the real of the minutes, took me to that moment disengaged confidently, clearly struhnul. He wept that he really has no money, he is now work, and in the evening the hotel will bring money. O'k. If you do not bring, then we will arrive in the morning to the police and run the bureaucratic machine. The meeting was scheduled for an hour X.
Interlude "The Song of the Spanish." Vicky, thank you for being inspired to study it; Pimsleur, thanks for such a simple and effective course! Started studying a month before departure. We first bought the course of a 100% Spanish, "but then read here on forum, about Pimsleur, Torrent, and the study came out like clockwork. Listened to a course on the way to / from work 1.5 hours a day. And that was enough to not only feel confident in everyday situations (shops, airports, hotels ...), but even to pass a couple of fights in police custody. The only thing which did not help either audiokurs nor available in the presence of dictionary, it's in the restaurants. Next sopa, papa, pollo, lana, pescada and trucha move failed ... 
After leaving the police, they saw in front of a travel agency where dotorgovalis up to $ 250 for a 2-day tour to the Canyon before Kabanakonde (without Huambe!) And transportation from there to Puno.
Mood to go to the Lagoon was not there. The remainder of the day wandered around the city. Stroll to the St. Francis Monastery.Very beautiful place. Some elegant beauty. But it is not photogenic, well, hand or something who grow up properly ... Admired by daylight Iglesia de la Sompaña. Not only beautiful facade,
but also the interior, and a cascade of a patio adjacent to the building on the left ...
Nice lunch in a restaurant in the gallery, choosing a more thoughtful place than before: There is a beautiful view and the square, and the Iglesia de la Sompaña. The day was lovely and warm. Recollected Chekhov: "... the sun shines so warm and so lovingly, as if would be nice drank, a hearty snack and saw an old friend ..." violates the idyll only gusty winds, driving the tissue through the gallery and seasoned our meal with sand ...
Follow the sun went to Alexandra advertised, the mistress of the Penguins, "the place. "All the pros go there to shoot the sunset. We must be there from 16 to 18 hours. " When we arrived, did not understand that there remove those notorious "pro". (Urok. Do not listen to the views of laypeople !!!). At this time this place can be seen: the city and the mountain in the background falls flat front light. Terra-cotta roofs, of course, sweet to the eye, but even layer without spikes and raisins - boring. And even that unpalatable species overlaps the clutter in the foreground ... Another waste of time and money on this day.
However, a couple of photos of all happened.
... Slept badly. Regularly woke up from having to take a deep breath. Oxygen is clearly not enough.
September 27
Colca Canyon
Precisely at 6 am arrived minivan. There are two. We are a little tense: From the guide, we categorically refused. Apparently, the confusion could be read on our faces. Aborigines explained that they were both drivers will replace each other. Julian and Kenny. Asked them about the coca leaf. According to rumors, it must be chewed to prevent altitude sickness, and in the city, we cook is not met. "Ah! No es problema! "Stopped at the village store on the outskirts of Arequipa, where well Zatar, and then brewed a thermos mate de coca. All day pozhevyvali leaves, drank tea.
Landscapes to ing a not dramatic, but quite varied and picturesque.
Immediately after the Arequipa begins stony desert. Here and there along the road among the desert there are creepy villages.Squat, dusty building crawl along the dusty wasteland along the road.
However, the life of us shy smiles, and in these lonely places:
This desert devoid of life, apparently, is for sale. There are clusters of partitioned stony fences of rectangular plots of land.
On such land can only grow cactuses.
Soon there were clumps of cactus instead of grass, resembling fluffy bunny tails. Very fluffy - an hour and a half of the road after the Jura. Unfortunately, we passed this place without stopping, and on such tasty tails are no longer seen.
And then began to meet graceful vicuña, alpaca touching.
When more and a little water came, it was quite magical.
Alpacas are beautiful from all sides:
On the pass (altitude 5200 meters):
This is not the places of worship. This baño at the pass:
The road to Chiva adorn these damsels:
After the pass, despite the cook, start to feel the impact much height. I felt as if she lay on the beach three days. Apparently, the mind, too, was crushed. Other explanation I can not find what we sluggishly followed by drivers and stayed for lunch at a roadside tourist restaurant at the entrance to Chivay. DO NOT have to stop there. Buffet; have something to satisfy hunger, but the food is pretty dreary. And we paid for it twice on the Red Square of Arequipa.
Stopped not long in Chivay.Day Watch at the city gates:
If in Arequipa people in national costumes are found, then further into the mountains, all live in them: in these large colorful skirts and wonderful hats they plow their not long in these mountainous areas the beds, sow, graze cattle, go to the market.
After ing a first impressive grand terrace, then stern dramatic Canyon.
Canyon in our opinion is undervalued community AWD. We have to consider themselves a place in Peru in the category of "must see". Granted, Compañero?
Overnight stop in Kabanakonde. We have not forgotten about Huambe and parting with the drivers until the morning, cast a fishing rod, promising to pay the extra money. No! There will not pass. Remained a mystery, what is there not something to Huambe ...
Hotels around the central square there was not much. It was not observed. We stopped into the first (15 salts for the single). Caught with the coziness of the provincial student dormitory era of developed socialism, but the rooms with privado bano, with hot water, clean. Freshness pastel linen aroused suspicion, and it was quickly replaced ..
We had to eat dinner. Found the two public institutions. In one sign of life could be found. In the second local trapeznichali aunt, but the hosts could not see. I'm not very hungry, so, after waiting ten minutes, I bored and left to wait Compañero food, went to see service in the cathedral - it sounds came to the restaurant. Someone from the members of the forum told me that the evening then emotional. I am probably out of luck. Parishioners were two.One was dozing, and the second picking his nose, enthusiastically eyeing a crack in the ceiling. Thick walls of the niches they painfully watched dolls of the saints.
September 28
In the morning went on zhmuryaschuyusya sighted in the morning sun area, with its quiet, unhurried life. And wished I had agreed with the drivers to meet at 6 am. To get this far and do not walk around the village and surrounding at least a couple of hours ...
Answer overdue. Yes, of course, live in Peru and men  :
While we gazed in the area, drivers conspired with local aunts and a couple of them asked for it in our car, drive to the View Point of condors. Yes, it does not matter - let sit down. However, along with aunts drove two huge Baula with cutlets. Nanyuhalis to ulcers.
To view point came one of the first. And even before the arrival, the road saw the birds knead wings. They soon showed itself in all its glory. Flew singly, in pairs, packs, in tandem with other birds ....
Once our car is slightly slowed down, Compañero instantly jumped out of the cabin, jumped over the fence and, despite the 100 kg of his muscular body, with the grace of a glib gazelle galloped after the Condor down the slope of the gorge slope 85 degrees, no less. Here's to the handsome man:
My heart stopped beating for fear. Went for a turn, not to see this horror.
The bend was an indispensable companion any public places for more than two tourists - a souvenir market.
We take pictures of merchants and condors, and looked at Julian and Kenny, enthusiasm for both cheeks tuck into burgers.
Though scared and have to go check out where there is bone Compañero: More complete with a camera, or it is time to equip a team of climbers with black bags to collect them on the slope. Happy Compañero sat near the fence and abandon photography for the condor. Cut circles around him anxious sullen detachment of guards ... I calmed down. The life of a single (and only because precious) companion - in many supposedly safe hands.
Soon went further.
In Chiva decided to eat in the repeatedly mentioned in the reports of the Irish pub. The only living soul who managed to find a pub, was a janitor. He clearly made it clear that now, wait for dinner is meaningless. Apart from him in an institution no one. It was almost noon.I had to bypass several institutions, until finally, once again picked up with the signs of life ... Definitely - feed at such an early hour in the Chiva is not accepted.
Refueled before the long journey to Puno:
Landscapes on the road to Puno kolkinskogo without drama, but very picturesque.
Struck by the depth of the scene. The air was nastolko transparent and pure, that looked through the neighborhood (all 360 degrees horizontally and 180 vertically) several kilometers away. Broad valley framed in layered ridges, with tender prescribed by the subtle tonal transitions, which digital camera never fails to adequately convey ... Above the valley and mountains stretched deep sky, successive sets every quarter of an hour. While stopping faithful percheron until will choose point shooting and you get to it, the scene has completely changed ... Despite fotoneudachi was so beautiful, and beauty was so voluminous, extensive, infinite, that sometimes heart sank with delight.
When twilight arrived in Puno, the rain started. Leaving a companion in the car, went to check suitability for housing the selected hotel (Santa Maria). Good. During my brief absence of the local traffic police shooed from the parking lot our minivan. Under stress doge ran to the car, at this time Compañero hurriedly gathered our belongings through the cabin. Ran, quickly checked, everything seems to have gathered ...
Asked the hotel where you can taste the delicious local cuisine. I explained in detail how to pass. Reached. Turned out to be tourist street type Arbat. Compañero Authentic love, and I am a gentle, delicate food. Authentic on this street did not smell. The selected at random place Compañero was hungry, and I enjoyed the delicate meal. Spaghetti manual preparation did not concede Italian, fillet and delicious sauce - not strident, but not flat, with well defined, clearly legible taste and aroma.
In the evening, wanted to read the guides, to more clearly provide tomorrow's trip and found that the glasses were in the car ...
September 29
Puno
On this day, was scheduled fairly intensive program. In the morning went to the fortress Sillustani. Taxis are caught quickly. Machine, strong in appearance, proved to be rather flimsy in the road. More than 40 km / h pulling. How long will shortly see, to the target reached. Dull dark ruins of a forlorn, whip around the hill.
Picturesque lake just Umai, suddenly appearing before the eyes at the end of the trail: when the place of frustration reaches its climax, suddenly come out of the water surface with a circular island in the center. And you realize that after all there is here than please the eye.
Compañero, experienced fotoohotnik, saw wild Cueva. With his patient help and I managed to spy a faded grass gray ones that look like well-fed rats, with plump zhopkami (no pink naked tail) of rodents.
On the way back, slowed down a local peasant farmstead. They are there for a few of the same type. Looks like a Potemkin village, but picturesque. Compound consists of four buildings - two rectangular and two round in cross section. All this is combined a stone wall with arched entrance.
When we stopped, I went to meet the hostess with a baby in her arms and two kids, curling around her legs.
Accompanied me to the mansion. We have already started to feel pressed for time, and my companion chose the collective (with the taxi driver) nicotinism inspection area ... not to make it a long time to get bored, run around the farm easy gait, looked superficially. It was found, except for the four buildings was still fifth - a small but solid house for Cueva. So where do you live, a Peruvian delicacy!
Prizvel impression of a house. A family of two adults and three children live in a room 2x2 meters. The wall with the front door, right and left of the entrance two couches from wall to wall, with the fourth wall between the stove a little stone oven, like a stove. Beds - it's stone base up to the knee on a rock layer of straw on top of straw a couple of skins Lama, and completes the construction of a few blankets.
... The kids were happy to given them toys (one for good luck was the musical), the mother - the joy of children, I - how warmly I was here, the taxi driver - cigarette Compañero. In Compañero visible reason to rejoice like it was not, but he did not look sad ... in good spirits moved on.
The next item on the program were thatched island on Lake Titicaca.Many have written on the forum, which is a pure tourist divorce, but illustrate takmi delicious photographs that still wanted to see.
At the dock in Puno reigned monopoly. All, go to the pier, met mordaty korenastny man. We are focused on price Privado round of 60 salts, but he offered us to put twice as much. A man accompanied us relentlessly. The captains of a handful stood aside and watched the negotiations, the opportunity to speak directly with anyone of them was not. Tried to reach some consensus with mordatym man, but to no avail. Instead of discussion, he gently took us to the counter to the collective boat. Under such a dictatorship financially encourage mofiozi did not want to, but also a desire to see the thatched island is still warm. Had to settle for ersatz - "collective". The team gathered rather quickly and not too large - about eight people, foreigners - we are a young couple traveling companion and the Spaniards.
And then - on duty farce, repeatedly described in the reports. He swam to a floating island, all seated circle and read a lecture about how everything here is arranged, flavored with its duty jokes about the Peruvian and Bolivian Titi Kaku. Peruvian tourists laughed responsively. We note with sadness, the local residents with the hope of waiting for a sluggish end of the presentation.
Islanders were even sorry: every day for years to listen to the text of the same song ... I wanted their material comfort, but they did not give a reason: a range of souvenirs not of diversity, it was all depressingly ugly ...
After some time, all herded into a straw boat. Desire to go there was not: the wretched structure, similar to moth-eaten, moss-covered seats, the whole thoroughly untouched by decay great souvenir. But times have ... obeyed. About five minutes later safely swam to another island. It turned out that for this dubious and undesirable so just fun we had yet to pay the extra money.
The second island was steeper than the first - is pure divorce: nothing but the restaurant was not there. Tent-restaurant, souvenir hut, a few plastic tables and plastic chairs under umbrellas on the same plastic straw. None of the tourists of our boat was not hungry and trapeznichat not going to. Ask the captain, when the push off. "After half an hour" - and answers gallop dumps. Soon after starting a cold rain accompanied by wind. Tosca magnified. Do here, exactly like the watch, absolutely nothing. Colored plastic on the straw cut disharmony eyes. Already noticeably cold and dank damp. Soon go the second and the last bus to Bolivia ... urged all occasionally approaches, the court to take us with him in Puno. But the flat refusal - Privado tour. "We freeze and moknem ... Finally, forty minutes full of somewhere in the depths of cuisine restaurant captain appears at the boat. "We leave ?!!!" - throw him ... I am Not yet. And starting with my son bail from the bottom our trough. It is also full of holes!
Finally, it sank. The captain pushed back from the island. We gently pushed off the forty meters. Son pulled the rope, the engine, he got off with stern silence ... Another, another, N-I try ... just as well. Captain unlinked two of some tubules, and in turn his son were then blowing into them, then suck. The motor kept impassive silence. Minute by minute drip ... very slowly ... The motor would not start, the captain did not try either to change tactics, no contact with the outside world ... Before my eyes involuntarily vsplavali pictures 15 minutes ago - the captain and the son of flinging buckets of water from this evil of the pelvis ... After half an hour drifting in lonely gray on this day the waters of Titicaca the Spaniards lost their nerve, he approached the lazy martyrs, energetically conjured a couple of minutes over the motor. Motor gratefully sneezed and grudgingly earned. Flew through the cabin whirlwind sigh of relief. We finally started. Of course, the last bus to Bolivia had already left.
Agreed with the taxi driver, with whom traveled from port to the hotel for 3 hydrochloric acid (three times I repeated, incredulously, not knowing that such money may just open the door of his car) for $ 25 to get to the Bolivian border. We drive to the center of the cross-border settlement Yunguyo, and the taxi driver said that more can be reached by local taxi. No, man, so it will not go! No boundaries - no money. He somehow did not realize what it was about, and at first even met, was to help unload the stuff. But then to him yet reached a simple tenet: do not pay at the border, we do not intend to. Beg for an additional 10 salt was decidedly sent in a certain direction and yet delivered, where necessary. From the place of a showdown to the border remained minute or two away. Why was venturing stupid hopeless disassembly, remained a mystery.
Border formalities were completed quickly, but not easily. Life was hard blindly. Questionnaires, which are to be filled, printed, fifth a size (usually taken to print the instructions to the drugs and cosmetics). Chance to read it without glasses forgotten in the car, and even in the twilight of lighting, there was not one. Unfortunately, Compañero of language familiar only with the Russian. Frontier officials were too busy staring at the ceiling a thorough web and categorically refused to help. Feeling of helplessness was not a pleasant one. I almost lost the peace of mind ... Was equanimity Compañero. He added to his dramatic baritone velvet bass overtones, and they affected me as a soothing and invigorating at the same time.
Peruvian pogranets to know that we are Russian, ran into bins of their homeland and brought some of our gold coins. Thought to boast exhibits numismatic-bonisticheskoy collection turned out - to sell the salt. Exit stamp had not yet been delivered, had to turn out pockets for small items.
Continued: http://travel.awd.ru/content/view/1256/76/ Author: http://forum.awd.ru/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=39326
Talk: http://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?f=462&t=85216
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