There is in the Volgograd region on the border with Kazakhstan, a huge salt lake.
Name - Elton.
Healing it - incredibly, there is water there, and dirt. No way inferior to the Dead Sea. But only with the PR at the lake badly. And with the infrastructure - just trouble.
Trip we had planned a long time, but we ugorazdilo be there in the thick. Come just as the day when the temperature rose to + 45 degrees. Generally, the ideal place to go when in bloom steppe. Probably - it is beautiful: the endless fields of tulips and vast spaces.
We left at midnight, so that at least some of the roads pass without scorching sun.
We were three, two drove the car, I could only occasionally run the navigator, because navigators can not be trusted, and the maps should be checked with pointers.
Aside Elton drove through Mordovia, Saratov and Pallasovku.
At dawn, just drove in Mordovia. I am very sorry that is not very quickly got the camera, because we passed through quite a charming village shashlychnikov. Despite such an early hour, in every yard smoked BBQ. And the most amazing thing is that this is not some kind of tent - navesiki and is what we are accustomed to, but very real village houses, with carved architraves, incredibly comfortable.
There is such a sign: if you get at the camera, there's nothing interesting you will not meet. Of course, I'm all prepared, the sight. Still, an interesting over. Removed only from the window at high speed a couple of morning landscapes:
Yes, we have a very beautiful country. At least in the summer
The guys were a car at a time. One was behind the wheel, the other was sleeping. With a jeep to do it easily and conveniently:
Further down the road we had Saratov. There repair some roads and some additional axle, so the city is one big traffic jam. And the tube goes through is not scenic, and because it failed to make impressions of the city. But when we moved through the reservoir in Engels, we opened a beautiful Panormo. Therefore, Saratov worth a visit alone.
Engels, I remember sad buildings and catering.
Is there a network of pizzerias called Tashir. People who do not go there! Location is very strange. Firstly, at very decent interior, where self-service. It is absolutely unnecessary crowd of stupid girls behind the counter, which would have been much better used as a waitress. And they push only slows the process.
Secondly, and this is the worst ... They have no food without mayonnaise. Only juice and milkshake. Ie the whole pizza - with mayonnaise (and how, tell me girl, mayonnaise - it's the same sauce), salads - also, soups - also with mayonnaise (you can imagine - they put in the soup Mayo !!!). Dumplings with mushroom sauce were the dumplings ... floating in the broth and dumplings floated among several pieces of cooked mushrooms. Of course, the mayonnaise was there. I did not dare to order anything.
Thirdly, according to picky kids, there frankly is tasteless and too salty all (so that the love of a cook can not justify.
After Engels' settlements were becoming less and less. Navigator was sent into a long sleep, as guide us along the shortest road flatly refused. Map was uncertain. We decided to ask at least what direction to go in people with machines.
People looked at us with suspicion, and for some reason, most of them went into nesoznanku. Particularly taxi drivers and truckers. Impression that their profession does not involve at least some orienteering. Seeing such a scenario, we decided to stock up on gasoline.
Gas station is not inspired confidence, so we have filled the canister and put it as a emergency reserve
Seeing such a counter, we thought, how it can tighten up and for how many liters of floods drown us less. Counter was obviously twisted the wrong way, because the canister is overfilled.
For 80-octane gasoline was less separation. But if there is a 95, I never saw:
Periodically, we found ourselves next to the railroad, which indicated that the correct direction:
At some point we realized that the way to a nice village Pallasovka can be found only in the direction indicated by the local population. All is good, but the population make it extremely rare, settlements were modest. That is the standard main street of the settlement:
In this region live growers. Here it is, what, the breadbasket of Russia. In the fields people work, clean grain and straw. There are elevators of all types and stripes. But otherwise bleak landscape
For a long time we drove through the dirt. Dusty. Insane amount of locusts climb into all the cracks, clogging the radiator grille. On one side of the field and elevators. On the other - the railroad. Top of the scorching sun, maddening.
Finally, we saw a woman. Drove ask for directions. Female Asian type. Our first thought: she does not understand our question. Yes, firmly drawn in Moscow reflex.
Woman on the perfect Russian, without the slightest accent, even the village cheerfully explained everything to us. We finally left with a primer on the pavement and drove towards Pallasovke:
Summer steppe - it is nothing romantic.
Scorched grass, sparse bushes. Do not even dream of a shadow.
Is there valley gophers. It's not hard to find, ie, at some point from the wheels, they begin to diverge. If you stop the car, and a good aim, there is a chance to catch him sfotkat. Hamster stupid and brief freezes, leaning out of the shelter.
This use poachers who kill gophers for skins and for the sake of fat that people use to lose weight.
Eat less necessary, and without mayanezika, then wonderful gophers will not have to kill.
July 2010 "/>
The road is getting closer and closer to Kazakhstan. Well yes, because once we were one country, and the railroad was built, where it is convenient. And now she is somewhere in the territory of Russia, but somewhere - in Kazakhstan. Obtained by crossing the border.
Road for cars is still going on in Russia, but the cellular communication begins to fail, and welcomes in roaming. If I had someone call at that moment, Beeline for the return of such jokes were waiting to come apart.
At some point, the field ran out and started the steppe. In the steppe herders on horseback tending vast herds of cattle and sheep.
Will take me up to the camera, the shepherd decided to make our India-style, and sent us across the path of a herd. Had vdarit by gas, not to feel surrounded by herds of sheep
We arrived in town. He met us with dust, empty streets and a feeling of total devastation.
Turned to the first he met the woman. Asked whether anyone here rents housing. She recommended Kazakh named Madisha (it clean and tidy), and even sent her husband to hold us.
Male first thing hit my head on the car, he said that our car is bad, whether it - Lada. But until the right home and spent the hostess presented.
The hostess asked us to to 150 pe per person per night, settled in the living room, because other rooms were occupied.
Seeing my camera, she took me by the journalist and kept asking why I'm shooting. Well why readers to show. Here's what the court:
That's - the house itself:
And this room. Indeed everything is clean and tidy. True, the shower - in the courtyard, a tank with a tap. Toilet - like a toilet, and even I with my small stature managed to beat my head against the ceiling, to say nothing about the guys.
We just leave things and taking a shower, went in search of food.
As you know, catering in the village is not much. But finding them is not difficult, because they are quite compact focused.
This cafe Comfort, Laura, dining room boarding house builders and cafes pension.
We asked local residents where there is the good quality coffee. Locals say with confidence that it - comfort. As it turned out, not lied.
On the way we offered to buy a sheep. Well, as you walk, suitable for women and offers. Unlike Moscow, Eltonskaya disruptions lamb no.
We went into this cafe. If not for a couple of men sitting around the table, we would think that the cafe closed. Knocked on the window and found the girl who washes dishes. Oh, that stupid jerk. We are constantly thinking that people of Asian appearance may not know Russian. In Eltonskaya can be for it still. All Kazakhs say in Russian just like you and me. True, the Russian language has not helped the girl to give us an a clear answer.
Soon a woman came out, already Russian. We asked what they have. Was offered the soup (we already cooked) and barbecue (you reheat ready or new fire?). Menu and prices were not.We almost turned around in search of a cafe Laura, but a higher power gave us a reason to stay.
Ordered 3 servings of 200 grams of shish kebab, 3 servings of salad, and it seems that one soup. And 6 slices of bread. Yes, always asked to say how many pieces of bread needed. Paid 700 rubles. Had to wait 40 minutes. Drinks had to buy "at the bar." This bar is located at the entrance and was a kiosk rather than a bar. Prices also do not barnye.Rebyata have a beer, I took a liter bag of strawberry juice (it is something and knocked down my throat).
Asked for a glass. We were told that the glasses do not. In the sense, as explained, they are, but they are not. Now. They can not explain why, but no, stakanov.No they are. Therefore, we proposed a plastic. Well, that's fine too.
Brought to order. Something to do with love and very at home. Knives, of course, is not filed. Apparently, it's only in big cities with knives eat. There has not taken even the steepest cafes.
Kebab ... Perhaps it was the most delicious skewers of lamb, which I have ever eaten. I tried the soup - just excellent. Vegetables - well, ordinary cucumbers and tomatoes. Delicious, of course. It will therefore be in Elton, eat better there.
After dinner decided to go to the lake. Unfortunately, I did not bring a camera to dinner, still can not forgive himself for missed shots.
Went directly from the cafe. Aimlessly. Through the houses, railroad, and directly across the steppe. We must also meet the sunset on the lake, as without it. And the lake, here it is, at hand.
We walked for a long time. Without a road across the steppe to go unpleasant. My perfectly working survival instinct dictates that better get on the road and scratching to the house. The kids like adventure.
Come, come, and the lake does not get closer. But the sun quickly goes down. Ahead of the steppe - it is certainly cool. Only the addition of broken bottles, wires, fixtures, and somebody's bones, where there are snakes. Here is one, it otkromlennaya snake still helped me to convince the guys to turn around and go back.
Then we were told that from the lake to the village - 5 km of the steppe, and the proximity of the lake - it's an optical illusion.
The night passed as hell. The windows of the room in which we lived, did not open (we have built a boarding house opposite the dust and flies). Air was not, then hosed.
The next morning Max has agreed with the mistress of the breakfast. We paid 200 rubles, and 2 days we were fed fresh milk and eggs fed with the freshest of eggs. The hostess has stressed that it is in the form of exclusion. And the tenants in her very rarely. So let it be. All is well. Her part-we-healthy diet.
After breakfast we went to the lake.
The first item was the source. It flows into the gray-water hydrogen. Not too tasty. Brackish. We are smart enough to try it in moderation. As it turned out to cup a day - is useful, and more - too much.
Drive up close to the lake is impossible, since You can stall, and no one will pull the tractor is not.
Should be guided by the following machines, and it is desirable not to lay the farthest:
Of course, we can say that the place is dull, the people there and there is no beauty at all.
But there is still someone manages in such a romantic place to drink beer.
And that's probably very comfortable.Drinking beer, eating locusts, which akkurat fresh, prosolilas-provyalilas:
Though to the lake to go far, but the ground underfoot prominaetsya. Any hole immediately fills with water. Water, in turn, immediately turns into a salt crust:
The closer to the water, the thicker layer of salt.
The water level in the lake depends of course on the weather. As you can see, it is fairly dry.
In addition to salt-water lake, there is the mire. If you look closely, the white and dark patches of earth are found:
The closer to the water, the thicker the salt crust. Cork between breaking in salt ovalchiki:
Their infinite number, and only mud pits violate a snow-white picture:
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