Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region.
All the same, go there, I decided to write - to share a purely practical information. Let us not speculate about go-no go, just practical and relevant to what they saw, heard about the prices, stay, movement and security.
Preface.
Originally, the trip to Iraq was conceived in his car. I thought to cross into Turkey or Georgia on a ferry from Odessa, then to pass through Turkey and enter Iraq. But, for various reasons related to auto, the presence of passengers and money, lack of information about ambushes, are on hold this adventure. Decided to go for exploration. In preparation for use of scarce subjects in Russian-speaking forums and LonelyPlanet-forum, where there was something practical. But a big part of what has been found, lost relevance (2005-2007). In this story, just personal experience. May 2009.
Theory.
Iraqi Kurdistan - is itself an unrecognized state, which created the Kurds, using the fact that Baghdad is occupied by the war have not yet before them. Kurds turned out in well: its own parliament and government, flag, capital, language and identity. Connects them to Baghdad just money (Iraqi dinars), and a lot of problems, which themselves, are dealt with can not. The territory actually controlled by the Kurdistan own army and police. And it's great merit Kurds: stay in Kurdistan (from personal experience) is safe and easy. True, have to get used to the huge number of police and military, all the patrols, checkpoint, document checks on the roads - the price of your security. This is exactly the Kurdish structure - not the U.S., UN and other "peacemakers" - those almost unnoticed. Well, maybe sometimes careening caravan of armored cars the size of Icarus, or helicopters, which fly in pairs. The question of safety and extreme (or lack thereof) still consider it. Jumping ahead, I can only say that in Afghanistan, felt much more extreme. In Iraq (Kurdistan), even somehow boring.
As it turned out, in Kurdistan is the Ministry of Tourism. Some information can be found at www.tourismkurdistan.com There is a guide in pdf. Yet found a wonderfully useful vordovsky file in English with LonleyPlanet. Much of it is outdated since May 2007, but the name of the hotel and city maps were very useful. If anyone should be - send it (link lost). There he was in the form of pages on Wikipedia: http://wikitravel.org/en/User:Stroppy2006 much of it irrelevant.
Hit in Iraq.
The easiest way to enter Iraq - through the transition from the Turkish Silopi (Silopi) in Iraq Zakho (Zakho). Transition is called Ibrahim Khalil (Khalil Ibrahim). The advantage of this transition is that you get in Iraqi Kurdistan (northern Iraq), where there is its power, its own laws. In fact, this state within a state. And we use that visa to Kurdistan is not needed, and put the stamp on the border, or rather two: one about the entry, the other about the fact that within 10 days you must go somewhere and be extended. Mean, 10 days without any problems and free you can be in the country. It is unknown whether the Kurdish stamp to go, for example, in Baghdad or Basra. Theory is different, but only in theory. In practice, I have outside of Kurdistan, the problem did not arise, but the route was clear (that I was going to Kurdistan), and therefore missed. It was possible to "lose" and go deep into Arab Iraq, but what would be said at the next checkpoint - is unknown.
Movement in the country.
The main problem for the traveler - the virtual absence of transport as buses or low-cost-airlines. The only way to travel between cities - a taxi. In this case, the cost is divided into several (4) passengers. You can go yourself, but you would pay for the entire machine. In this and the problem is that if you have one, and eat with the other passengers, you can not ask to stop to take a photo or something else. Taxis are trying to go as quickly as possible, because travel between cities is still considered unsafe.Every few kilometers there is CPR (check point). They are of different types (by severity). Sometimes you pass just slowed down and occasionally submachine show the taxi driver that you need to stop and all go on clearance. Looking documents. It turned out that at least 2-3 times had to get a passport when traveling between cities. The bag looked just once for the entire trip. Especially serious border checkpoints of Kurdistan and Arab Iraq. On the one hand, the Kurds are looking to come to their area of Baghdad or Kirkuk did not bring something explosive, on the other hand, Arabs are also looking for something and someone to delve rides. I examine various ways. Especially serious shmanayut local Mini Bus and questionable form machine, where crammed a lot of people.
Signposts on the road are duplicated in English, although the taxi drivers and the military as a rule except for "Mr." and "problems" can not say anything. As it turned out to experience a serious person checking passports caused no suspicion of your person, but because he simply can not read. Therefore, he asked out of the car and sends you into the booth, where sits the oldest. He looks a page with photos and your entry stamp and wish good luck.
Joke at the checkpoint is not necessary, because judging by the appearance of posts, particularly those where there are Arab war, the incidents are taking place there regularly. And shoot for those kids - work. So if what - they had better shmalnut once again from "Kalash", something to ponder. Local people are very much respect (or fear) the police and military, and performs all that is required. Defend yourself or defend your position in the taxi driver at the checkpoint will not be. Therefore, it is better to be prepared for the story about its route at least for my fingers.
Roads are more or less, as we have. Many new roads, or in a state of repair. Speed limit of 110 or 90 can stand on such sites, where we would put 40. I have not thought that drove local - all extremals. Like the mass of neat and loyal, kind, but the influence of the East is. "Emergency gang" warn traveling behind the ambush (speed bumps, traffic congestion, running a dog ...). The overtaking vehicle must pipiknet and blink, denoting themselves and intentions. But when you rebuild a "turn" does not include. Go to "vstrechke" too normal. Traffic police are not aches drivers, but it helps. Police post at every intersection.
Rates.
Throughout the journey I was paying $ 10-20 for a hotel. They were simple otelchik, but always with shower and WC, hot water, air conditioning and satellite TV. True, the 10-20 - it is the price per room, which can be divided into 2 if you have a companion. But I had to pay for two beds. Breakfast is usually absent. I caught only one hotel with breakfast. Yes, and do not need it, because on the street all the delicious and cheap.
Food.
I ate only "on the street, along with the locals. All very tasty and cheap. Kitchen - as in Turkey. Differences are not observed. Same-kebab-mashlyk, various kebabs ... There is a beef soup, boiled eggs, a simple salad, rice ... Everywhere tea. Often treated to tea because of the fact that you are an alien. Eat at any time of day, anywhere, no problem. I suffered as a lover of coffee - it there is almost no drinking. Specially went to the expensive hotels, to overturn a couple of cups. Prices in the hotel for food indecent.
The attitude of local.
Local Kurds - are very good people. In Iran were not invited back, but very friendly. Many say hello to you, putting his hand to his heart. If you go to any restaurant where they eat or drink tea and loud greeting, half the people will rise to greet you. This also applies to the police and the military. Everyone wants to help, but do not speak in English. On itself never experienced any negative attitudes or razvodnyaka. Surrender even give honest.
Budget.
Of course, many worried about the price. If you spend to take the whole budget, then:
50% - transport.
25% - rates.
25% - food.
If you take the day, it's $ 10-20 for a hotel, another $ 05.10 for meals and another $ 10-20 on the movement (if every day somewhere to go). In practice, spend less than $ 40-50/den difficult.
Dollars, euros or Turkish lira change in Iraqi dinars street changers (banks are absent). You can change into almost any store, if the amount is small.Exchange on the street is safe for you, they moneychangers sitting with a few thousand dollars on the ground or in their hands. As the imported currency convenient dollar in small denominations. Having a piece of paper on 05.10.1920 dollars, no problem of paying for hotels, shops, taxis, thus adjusting the balance of your pockets of local money.
$ 1 = about 1200 ID (Iraqi dinars). When asked the price of a hotel or stores - better to specify what price. So, if you say "10" - it may be in dollars or thousands of dinars. Iraqi money is only paper. No coins. Minimum bill - 250. This is the cost of some little things such as cups of tea or a pita. I came across notes 50 (just a penny), but only in minibuses to the local city. Most of the change were not given anywhere. Most running -1000, 5000 and beyond - 10000, 25000. 25000 - this is already $ 20.
You can haggle. At twice the price does not decrease, but try to mow down 20-30% is possible. Worked in hotels. Did not work in a taxi (there is such fiksed price, including local). Taxis in the city worth 2000-3000. Eat and watch the distance and feel. Never in taxi conflict and misunderstanding was not. Just give in its sole discretion - always rolled - "Thank you very much."
Interestingness.
This is most sad - they are not there.
Architectural monuments of the tortured, the mosque's historic, local can not explain how that finding. In reality, very little to look at, at least in Kurdistan. The cities themselves look like a Turkish province (not as a Syrian or Iranian) - half the city with a Turkish bazaar shmurdyakom (shorts, jeans, sneakers, plastic pasochkami ...), half the city - the slums of varying quality, but not ancient. Such feelings in Iran, when the city - as open-air museums, not here. Stalls and shops with handmade pieces, souvenirs, antiques are not. This is in Iran or Syria can be purchased at every turn is something very beautiful and old - some pot or samovar ... in Iraq - the only Turkish shmurdyak. There is no "atmosphere". It replaces flying in the air, the pride of the Kurds for their "state".
When to go?
The best time - it's April-May (early), or September-October. The May temperature was in some places about 30, more comfortably. Once was the rain. In summer it gets over 55. Given the wind with dust ...
Communication.
Phone worked without any problems anywhere.
Internet cafes are, but not too much. Need to look at the main streets. Internet-awful slow.
Photo.
I deliberately did not take the SLR. Was traveling alone and did not want to have the ballast as a couple thousand pounds of weight and $. Took a bar of soap, which is halfway dead. So with the photo did not work out. With the SLR, I have not seen a single person. To remove problematic because at every intersection where you would not have sent a camera everywhere will get the shot the police, military, or some artful object, the machine ... in general everything that can not shoot there at every step. Ordinary people do not mind when they take off. As said the correspondent, whom I met for tea, not shoot into the open. There is a risk of being without a stick, or a camera in the worst case. At best - getting stuck in a police station for an hour, pending a decision by the big boss.
Souvenirs.
The main souvenir - the page in the passport. Wife bought a local "carpet" bag (the only I found the manual work). Were still cool handmade shoes for 50 bucks, I bought these in Iran 7. Surprised by the complete absence of any military-souvenirs. For example, in Afghanistan, you could buy floor mats with skyscrapers and airplanes on 9 / 11, in Iran, I found a shop with a sellout of army clothing and paraphernalia, and even bought a couple bags of the Iranian army in 1943. In Kurdistan, anything not found.
The remaining denominations of Iraqi dinars. That's all. Bring nothing. There are no shirts, no symbols (except for flags) ... Well, could've come up with something. There are these Resort in the mountains, there is pride, there is finally the Ministry of Tourism, and no souvenirs.
Kirkuk? Mosul? Baghdad ...?
As it turns out that the road of Dohuk, Erbil passes Mosul, Irbil, Sulaymaniyah road - past the Kurkuka. Rather, through the suburbs.This sites are not controlled by Kurds. There and CAT with the Arabs and the Iraqi (not Kurdish) flags, and more armored vehicles. It's like traveling around the sites during the day safely. On the LP-Forum of the Council to clarify a taxi, do not you done whether they are in these cities by road. It makes no sense - by default, they go round, especially since a new road built for this. Afraid of Kirkuk and Mosul as fire.
Asked everyone who could speak of a "go-no go" in Kirkuk or Mosul. As one man said that there was "very dangerous", that more than 20 minutes there is not live, etc. With the words and the news - there every day at least 1-2 attack occurs and the Kurds and Arabs wet each other on the sly. The fact that Kirkuk and Mosul, the Kurds believe historically its territory, which is due to a misunderstanding came under the control of Baghdad. The nature of this confusion is understandable: in Kurkuke is one of the biggest oil reserves in the world and the largest and Iraq. Therefore, for this land and they argue. Americans and the British beneficial things as they are now. While Arabs and Kurds wet each other, the democratic civilized world, or rather a couple of corporations pump oil slowly.
Kirkuk, according to the local is no less dangerous city than Baghdad. Some say that even Kirkuk dangerous. More oil, less control, more Kurds (who is watering the Arabs).
I got the impression that at that moment, the Kurds want (dream) control of Kirkuk, at the same time, they isolate themselves and others against him. All the people I asked and someone said that there is dangerous "really, really, never been there themselves. While this distance is very close (about 50 kilometers, for example). When I asked whether there companion - the answer usually is: "I myself was born in Baghdad (or Kurkuke, or Basra, or ...), but my family moved there when I was 15," or "was the last time 20 years ago . Real situation, no one knows - only from the media. Already in recent days, I met a couple people who have something to tell. One was a correspondent for the channel, and is at work in different places. He said those fears, which are all said to have been very relevant a few years ago. Now - better. Of course, 100% guarantee no one will give as well as in Manhattan or Tokyo, Madrid or London ... Another interviewee was a student who has friends in Baghdad and Kirkuk. With them he communicates on-line. They (friends) say that more or less to live can be, and much better than a year or two ago. If these "reviews" before I heard a couple of days, would risk. Now account for only guess that there is, and how. Get in Kirkuk or Mosul is very easy for a taxi. In Baghdad, too - just go ahead and a greater risk that the checkpoint does not like the Kurdish visa. A Kirkuk and Mosul are logically located in the vicinity of Kurdistan. You can simply take a taxi, for example, from Sulaymaniyah Kurkuk, and from Kirkuk to Erbil, and Kirkuk to be as much as you want - travel, or stay for a day. But it is all 'theory', unverified in practice. Food for Thought. I repeat - in practice is not checked and I do not recommend anything!
Dangers in the Arab Iraq due to the fact that there are police and army, the government, which does not actually control territory, cities and roads, unlike in Kurdistan.
Beginning of the road
Two days before departure were purchased e-tickets from Kiev to the first Turkish Airlines to Istanbul, then in Diarbakir (Diyarbakir). It is a city in southern Turkey, which is considered the capital of Turkish Kurdistan. It is interesting to us because it is the closest airport to the border with Iraq - about 300 km. There is also an airport in the city of Mardin (Mardin), 120 km closer to the border, but there is the interface of the worse happened.
Turkish Airlines has always been famous docks, invented by one seat. As usual, the flies to Istanbul in the evening and departure Diarbakir early in the morning. You can of course do not spend the night in Istanbul, and go on a bus, but the distance to Diarbakira 1300 km, and how it will ride the bus, even a very comfortable ... with all the stops ...
Upon arrival in Istanbul, I took advantage of the fact that the airport is not far from the city and you can get to the center by subway. Ride with a transfer to tram, for a long time - about an hour. Istanbul ... he's in Turkey and Istanbul.
After walking hand in all places, boat paromchike, eating the local sweets, fish, sipping coffee, I came to the conclusion that is very dear to this city. Coffee in a cheap restaurant for more than $ 2, I rarely drink in Kiev. Home, office, even in the car I have a coffee maker. The street food was not as tasty as I thought, and the most tasteless of what I ate throughout the journey.
Last chance to leave the airport in the evening - before midnight. Then the night at the airport. Some cafes are working at night. You can find outlets for charging your phone or fotik. More at Istanbul airport is convenient for sleeping blocks of seats without armrests. Passengers sleeping in small, easy to find place. If you spend the night in the city, the morning will go to the airport by taxi. The first train from the city takes about 6 am.
Flight to Diarbakir - about 2 hours. Coming out of the airport at 9 am know that to get to the bus station, from where buses go to the Silopi (Silopi), city on the border with Iraq, we can only take a taxi. Taxis in Turkey is obscenely expensive, and more likely to breed with the meter. Happened already in 1922 lire ($ 13) on the counter for a 10-minute trip. Renounce to take a taxi in Turkey. Bus to Silopi rides several times a day. On weekends, the schedule may be different. And I had no luck. Arriving at the bus station about 11 hours, I learned that the nearest bus only at 15:00. Ride for 5 hours. Hence, in Silopi can be only at 20:00. Again, tedious wait for a large bus station, local food, tea, it's not for nothing.
Buses a lot, but they are not going in the right direction: in Istanbul (1300 km), Antalya (1000 km), Ankara. Ticket Diarbakir-Silopi worth 20 lire. Purchased inside the building in the ranks of desks, office bus companies.
Time devoted to reading a hastily-printed order form with Lonely Planet. Of course, you could go into town and find a place that is depicted on the emblem of the city - some ancient gate or fortress with watermelon, but the price of a taxi spooked. The city decided to leave for the return journey.
Go to Silopi really 5 hours and road unremarkable. Sleep has no power, and treat people, cars, buildings ...
On the way, the bus makes a short stop. The bus gives tea-coffee (instant).
Yes ... well, that in Turkey, I flew to Diarbakira, not to Mardin. And then, one would have to sit here day:
Arriving in Silopi at dusk, just at the bus station (they are called otogaraj) know about taxis in Ibrahim Khalil (Ibrahim Khalil). This city is already on the Iraqi side. The theory states that, in Silopi need to take a taxi, which will transport you directly to the Iraqi side. Pedestrian crossing is not present, because the bridge can only go by car. All passengers must be included in the statement. This is the usual form to fill with the driver. Return rates fit a car, the names and passport numbers of all passengers including the driver. Taxi drivers call it the "execution of all documents."
It turned out that evening to find travel companions unrealistic and I offer to go to the hotel and in the morning to cross the border. So say the taxi drivers, whose office is right on the bus. They will find you when you get off the bus.
As soon as my bus left the bus station and people are resorbed, darkness fell and it is desolate. Bus died. Taxi drivers have called in some hotel, and was told that the room would cost in the range of 10-15 pounds. But sleep in this Turkish hole did not want, and pay $ 40-50 one at a taxi to go to the border right now, not a solution either. The negotiation process uproar, and I was discovered competitive taxi office around the corner. They agreed to take me across the border one for $ 25. During the day I'd give for a place in a taxi $ 10.
From Silopi to the border to go for 20 minutes. A few kilometers before the border begins queue of trucks and fuel tankers. Well, that separate passenger gates.
Read many times that the output from Turkey can not say that going to Kurdistan. Only in Iraq or in northern Iraq. State "Kurdistan" for Turkey does not exist. And although in that region of Turkey lives majority of Kurds, on the border are working Arabs. They do not like when someone is talking about Kurdistan and can find fault with something. The formal reason to deny you, they do not have, but ... I could not test this, I have no one asked. The bag is also not looking. No screening, metal detectors, x-ray machines.
Carrier enters me in their form and continue the process of crossing the border is no different from what occurs on any transition of Ukraine-Poland. Driver runs back and forth with documents. I need to go back and forth with a passport. Turks released quickly. Let's go over a bridge 300 meters. Here it is - a yellow stripe on the bridge ... I remember the Friendship Bridge from Uzbekistan to Afghanistan. I was going through his foot and could no longer enjoy the moment when anticipating a new custom country. It is a pity that now the dark, nothing can be seen on the sides and no friends, fellow travelers.
On the Iraqi side welcomed us very friendly pograntsov. The people there are almost no attention to us and all. I noticed a sedan with Dutch numbers and a pair of pensioners. Unfortunately, you can not communicate - they leave before I came. On the Iraqi side, we go into the office where I was treated, or rather my passport. The building sat a few guards, hangers-on. Plucking cheek (and knowing that they should) require some tea. There is a boy with a tray and distributes all of the tea. Of course, it's free. So much for hospitality. And where else on the boundary-crossings are treated to tea? 
I beckon to the window and asked one question by the driver (with English is very tight there): "for what purpose in Iraq." I answer with a smile that "tourist". Gorgeous stamp, or rather two, and let go of tea.
(Photo still visiting shtapm)
Perhaps it was the main souvenir travel. One stamp of entry, the other about the exit (it will appear later) and a big stamp of that within 10 days I have somewhere to register.
Later still, as if the formalities were asked about the profession. Said that the manager of the sale of TVs. Clearly, we should not say that you are a journalist, a photographer, a nuclear scientist or a porn star.
At the border, behind fences seen a lot of interesting military equipment.
There is a driver with his papers and we go further. I wanted to find a sign «Welcome to Iraq», but it did not happen. We drove past the gate and found themselves on the big parking lot near the office of border guards. This is Iraq. The taxi driver goes back to Turkey, or to wait in the morning and passengers not to go home empty.
So what to do on the Iraqi border? The clock 21:00. Hence, from the moment of arrival in the Turkish Silopi took only an hour. Now we need to go to the nearest town on the Iraqi side - Zakho (Zakho). It is located 9 km from the junction. Just go by taxi (and hereafter). How much is a taxi - do not know. Paid for the car Kurds, who drove my taxi driver from Silopi.
The road to Zakho unremarkable. Can be considered halfway trucks and fuel trucks in a queue for the border. In the city I landed somewhere in the middle.Here it is, the first town! Now we need to find a hotel. Technology usual - go and look. Found after 5 minutes - do not even have time to walk. As it turned out, this was just one hotel that was recommended on the forum LP. There was even a breakfast. Since I took $ 15.
He threw the bag I'm bewildered by the exchange of dollars for local money. To resolve the question asked the boy not to change the reception of money. I read that in almost any shop or hotel can change a small amount. The boy agreed to help, but as it turned out, not himself. Money he had, and had to go out into the street. I volunteered to go with him to walk. It was not too late and not sleepy. Needed some impressions of the new country. When we went out, everything changed the moment I walked into the hotel. It took just half an hour, but the town seemed dead. Traders closed shops, tea, too, the people porazbegalsya. On the streets - only the police and people hurrying home. Leaving the hotel, we were on the stasis deserted market. The boy said that he should look for another running any shop. As they walked on the streets with the dark, closed shutters stores, said that he is from Mosul, and came here to work in the hotel for three bucks a day (in Mosul, pay only 2 and it was dangerous to live). So we walked in the dark and at some point, I thought, what the hell we're looking for when everything is closed in and around only darkness. What's the currency exchange? Suddenly, in the darkness drew a few people in national dress. Men peacefully sitting on the curb and talked about life, not paying attention to us. When approaching it became clear that all of them with arms. Basically - the "Kalash". Apparently embarrassed to wear day and night can be. When we caught up with them I said hello "salaam alaikum". They stood up and said hello too. A second later came back to his conversation. Proposed to guide selected from this market, realizing the futility of money exchange in the dark closed market. On the main street of some of our shop, we are all the same and the money changed.
$ 1 = 1,200 ID
Otelchik was a pleasant place with all the amenities, which was very needed after a night at the airport, tedious expectations and bus.
Finished with a breakfast of boiled eggs, pita bread, salad and tea (there could be how much you want) with a view out the window at the local beauty, I walked to the bus station to go further.
Nothing remarkable on the road has not been found. Usual eastern city. Here the first time I realized that the aliens do not pay attention, and it is great.
It was decided the first day in Kurdistan to devote to get to the farthest part of the journey - Sulaimaniya (Suliymaniye). Then from there move otbratno in Turkey, with stops in cities. Of course, in any case were to go on the road to pass through the city of Dohuk (Dohuk), or as they say local "Dohok, Arbil (Erbil, Arbil, Irbil, Hawler in Arabic). On the way there can be estimated budget for travel, time needed, the degree of interestingness, and other things that need to plan your trip. I was tied to the return flight "turkey-home" within a week.
This day I spent in a taxi. In Iraq, there is practically no buses. Movement of people going by taxi, where you only pay for the place (shared taxi). Taxis depart from certain places. For example, if you need to go to Erbil, simply catch a taxi into town and say, "Erbil garage. The taxi driver will take you to that station "garage", from which taxis are sent in the right direction. Need to go to Baghdad - say "Baghdad garage.
First I went to Irbil (in Zakho) for 25,000 dinars ($ 20), 2,5 hours. Moving to another "garage" got into a taxi to Sulaymaniyah for 15000 dinars, about 2 hours. In both cases I had to wait more than 15 minutes filling in a taxi.
Half of the road admiring the fences topped with barbed wire
a lot of transporters with new machines
sometimes at great speed rush convoys of armored vehicles. Speed such that the dish soap does not have time to focus, and the driver is scared. Hard to believe that an armored car the size of Icarus so to disperse. In the sky from time to time flying turntables
and underfoot comes across fresh press
On the map, the road from Dohuk to Erbil passes through Mosul (Mosul), or as they say local "Mosul," the road from Arbil to Sulaymaniyah - in Kirkuk (Kirkuk), they pronounce "karkuk. Mosul and Kirkuk are located in disputed areas. The Kurds believe that land historically theirs. There's a big part of the population are Kurds. But these cities are not controlled by the Kurdish army and police. These cities are considered to be unrealistic, dangerous, such as Baghdad or even dangerous. On our way we need to double-travel to the limits of Kurdistan and Arab Iraq in the fall. At the forum many times LP says that before getting into a taxi, you need to specify whether or not it does not go (taxi) across Mosul or Kurkuk'll pick from the city center. Kind of like, some taxi drivers can stop off. But, in fact, no taxi driver HUB Zone is not neglected. They are very afraid to go there and always go round as far as possible. I did not ask, and just hoping that once they go through the city. But not gone.
In fact, the road passes through the suburbs, bypassing the city. We can admire the city from afar. An hour later, after traveling by taxi understand that the most important thing that is with you - it is a passport. Check it several times (at least 2-3) between the cities. CAT scores themselves. Somewhere just slows down, sometime stop and display the document. In some asked to come and inspect the interior. Checkpoint at the border of Kurdistan and Arab Iraq is particularly serious. There just better not to joke. Look kindly, but seriously. Some machines shmanayut in full. Over the PPC do not develop brand-new-Lovely Kurdish flags and scraps of stale Iraqi flags. Other forms of military and machinery. More armored vehicles.
There better not to take photographs
CAT set on the road and always - at the entrances to all locations.
On the horizon, the British Petroleum Corporation.
But if you need to buy a couple cans in retail can do it right here on the road
Many "private" fields. In fact, derive from the land of the tap and show the pointer, which drive up fuel truck. On the way there are dirty in a black car - it is they carry this oil
May in the Kurdistan region "/>
Passengers in the taxi - a chance to talk (if someone says in English). Taxi makes a stop for lunch near the audited restaurants. Food is simple and tasty. And there is the opportunity to ask your fellow travelers. On the road to Erbil, I met a guy who more or less spoke in English. However, not so good, as if he lived (as he said) 6 years in Britain. My doubts were dispelled when I asked about that, the town in which he lived. Said, the city Manchesteryunayted. He spoke about the hard life of an Iraqi passport. Asked whether he will in Ukraine citizenship, if he comes as a "political refugee". Then, I offered to swap passports. I was curious to see an Iraqi passport. It opens, like all Arabs - on the contrary.
The passport was issued in Baghdad, but the owner was not there 100 years, so there was no useful information. Think again, I decided not my passport at this time.
Limited to refreshments with tea (I was treated). Here is the workplace - boilers, kettles and other shnyaga.
On another "segment" I got to know a girl who was famous Kurd film actress, and she said - "very popular". Drove with her producer. It confirmed the view of many people from the forum LP, which Sulaymaniyah (where I went) - more interesting Arbil (the capital of Kurdistan). With the words, Sulaymaniyah "more cosmopolitan, culturally closer to Europe and .... In general, better than anyone." It appears this is blatant lie. But the soldiers stopped us to the checkpoint are always very happy seeing this actress. Apparently, the truth known. Sulaymaniyah
In Sulaymaniyah immediately went looking for something cosmopolitan and interesting. The whole city's just a bazaar (Turkish) and the streets around it. Main mosque not too impressed.
The main gate of the market district.
And here is the market itself. In the middle of the day people a little bit.
Old buildings are interspersed with new, as it were beautiful
Wow, the Range Rover!
In restaurants you can not walk around with weapons
Self-respecting Kurd always carries with him all the bare necessities: a head with horns, a tape recorder ...
May in the Kurdistan region "/>
Toward the evening begins to show different glamor. Here, the couple went for a walk
I know that the east is often men's hands go - it is not "bad." But these were written on their faces that they ochen_blizkie_druzya.
That's majors appear. Told me that there is almost "Europe", and I still did not believe ...
Decent men talking in a specially-allotted svetskih conversations location on the central square.
To look good, a lot of ustraeno tsiryulen.
For a snack a lot of places where kebab can recharge yourself salad
Police and military are on duty round the clock at the same places.
In general, life boils.
 All that is in the city worth visiting can be easily reached on foot. There's no hurry. In the center of Sulaymaniyah is a park. Peaceful Kurds are sitting on the grass and read poetry, something taught to operate the computer.
Children play on the court.
In this atmosphere, you catch yourself thinking that no one realizes that this "Iraq".
And yet, as in every cosmopolitan city, Sulaymaniyah, has its own cinema.
By evening, he went in search of coffee. In Kurdistan, do not drink coffee, therefore, to find a normal (not Nescafe) difficult.
Turkish coffee was found in an expensive hotel "Sulaymaniyah Palace Hotel. There you can for ridiculous prices to drink whiskey or other alcohol, even cocktails. Iraq is different from some Muslim countries that buy alcohol easily and cheaply. And to drink without problems. Thump can be easy: the entrance to the hotel carefully guarded.
In the evening, dying out as Sulaymaniyah and other cities. Often cut off the light. Therefore, if you have a generator, can work longer.
Sellers of tea blackout is not terrible. Coal in their hand-blown devaysa impeller. Came at once the idea of putting such a LandCruiser, so passengers pedals spinning - did boost.
A little more, and the street that looked three hours ago here so
Now looks like this.
 Morning decided pofotkat resurgent city. Night there was heavy rain from time to time spotting before lunch. Thunder was with thundering, as if the city dropped the missile. I've been thinking, finally began to bomb.
I went out into the street at 7 am. The city woke up.
Everything was just as yesterday, only wet
Alongside a main mosque, a crowd of men
Mobile Chef sickened some shnyaga
Those who started cooking earlier - "Swedish table". By the way, beef soup that they eat in the morning, very tasty 
Wakes up and the market
people on the streets there are very few
Lounge area is empty
After breakfast, it becomes more fun
May in the Kurdistan region "/>
Now you can go on! Halabzha
Within an hour's drive from Sulaymaniyah, almost on the border with Iran is the town Halabzha (Halabja). It is here that held chemical attack against Kurds in 1988. To commemorate this sad event, built the monument, which I decided to visit.
At this time, wanted to test the local transport (not taxis). First in the market area (where my hotel was $ 15) was found by taxi to the appropriate "garage". In this avtobusike I learned that Iraq has a bill 50 dinars. Before that, saw only 250. Transplantation in this here bus.
Once again, glad, as local drivers, even those not new machines take care of keeping the presentation car. Shifter and parking brake wrapped in foil to sweaty hands of the driver is not zalapyvali them.
Through such efforts, of course, the bus will stay longer new.
"Garage" - a place to send a cab
At the entrance to the city on the right shows something strange. Monument? -Yes! And then stop. 100m from the road on which you carefully inspect the soldiers. Right in front of the monument is a police station and something military. This and control.
Right at the door I was met by the director of the complex, which is good English guided tours. I am one, but it does not matter. We see that all the soul. His family was at the epicenter of events, and he knows of no news. It's a sad monument, and it is dedicated to a single event - chemical attack. 5.4 rooms with pictures on the walls,
Meeting with the reconstruction of the scenes depicted in the photo. Decorations, mannequins of dead people and animals ...
and the high circular room under the dome leaves striped in the colors of the Kurdistan tent. On the walls - black stone slabs with the names of the victims. Middle of the room something great round is 3m in diameter.
That's all.
Even if you have imbued the whole tragic and the importance of this monument to the Kurdish people, making it more than 20-30 minutes - nothing. Saying goodbye to the soldiers stop the first avtobusik the city. The driver does not take money. To the center - about 3 minutes. As usual - a bazaar, mosque, tea ...
By the way, the town turned out to be heartier than the big city
May in the Kurdistan region "title =" Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region "/>
At the market stumbled on a bench with arms. There are machine guns, and ammunition, and accessories.
The Kurds are friendly, allow all to touch, photograph. Sold in the open.
-How much, how much? And the one with the duct tape is cheaper? Decided to leave the next day from Sulaymaniyah, which he so lovingly call "Suli» (Suly) in Erbil. Before leaving to go out to the former prison, which under Saddam tortured Kurds. Name of the place Umna Saraca or Red Prison
The fence is no different from other
Then everywhere there are traces of the war. It looks like Beirut.
Could not find where the entrance to the exposition. Are few, but I managed to settle down to a group of students. Inside one building are preserved labyrinth of tunnels and chambers.
There are several scenes of torture. Only 4-5.
There is still a woman with a child, a prisoner chained to the railing on the stairs.
You can walk on three floors, go out into the courtyards. All monotonous, and after a few minutes you feel uncomfortable with the atmosphere and the walls.
There happened to me an interesting case. The group that I joined up in full out of the building. I am at this moment was on the second floor and only heard the light switch and flicked in a second closed lock on the iron door. In the dark, somehow came down, bumping into gypsum prisoner, chained to the railing, I found a closed door to freedom. It took about 20 minutes, but it was not time for jokes.
In response to my knocking on the door nobody responded. Even after 10 minutes, someone walked past and heard. Ran to seek assistance.Waited about 15 minutes. Tired of the darkness. Felt a little scratch and opened the door from the inside, unlocking the latches on both doors. The man with the keys and has not appeared.
And you say that there is taken hostage? This nenaroshno. Just so turns out. Accidentally closing doors.
Assembled in the territory of military aviation
and other equipment in disrepair.
It's time to move here, more in Sulaymaniyah have nothing to do 
 If you think what I love Sulaymaniyah? Is there something? Yes.
Then I bought the second most important souvenir (second only to stamp in the passport).
I've got an old Toyota, Land Cruiser 60, 80-ies. I love her very much. For such a machine is unreal, hard to find parts. In Iraq, many of these machines. Somewhere in my heart I was hoping to buy something for the car. Some detail, for example, glass rear lights, which I cracked. Watching them earlier in the e-bay - sold someone 45 bucks for shipping. Did not seem cheap, but then no options.
And here, passing in some dirty suburb, see shops, shops with various auto-shmurdyakom. Remembered the headlamp. I went into the first shop and ask. None of England. does not say so, fotkayu right here on the road, passing the 60-ku and I say that is such a model, and show with fotik finger on the lights ... The first shop - only to American cars, the second - in Korean, while the third - hooray: Toyota!
Showing with fotik ... Man mechanically poking in the window - "Why, are these bits of glass, we have here are a pile." How much? 5 bucks for a pair (!) Repeats the question first, I think that can translate not correct, and they are 15, rather than 5 ... "This is Taiwan mister, not China emae!
I suggest buying the glass is not a kit, ie, lights completely. After 10 minutes, get out of the shop with a large package with a set of all front and rear lights on your favorite Toyota and suddenly remember that I forgot about the turn signals, which are the wings on the side. Going back and saying here is (pointing to the stands next to a car). "Know problems, mister!" Scooped out of the box a couple of turn signals, "they have for two dollars, but since you have so much to buy, then you - bonus."
Bottom line: for all that the picture (with all the light bulbs, bolts, wires, pack):
Headlamps - those that the four - 5 bucks a thing
Else - by 10-17 per pair. For all - just $ 60. Was so glad that even bargain forgotten.
Of the additional costs - bag for 9 bucks and a little nerve at the border.
Who has a rare old car - will understand my joy Irbil.
The road to Irbil. Again we drive past Kirkuk. There is still another way from Sulaymaniyah to Irbil, but she goes through the mountains - Hamilton Road. They say - insanely beautiful.
Yes ... Irbil - is you do not Sulaymaniyah. Immediately feel the breath of antiquity. The city is situated around the ancient citadel. This place about 5000 years, and the city is considered one of the oldest in the world. Immediately clear - here and more interesting and colorful. To conquer the city outright prevents me shopping in the headlights and the hotel will be searched. The first three from the list of «full», therefore, apply tried and tested technology. The hotel is immediately. Costs will be $ 20. I throw things in the citadel. So she looks out the window.
So from space
The city is located around the Citadel
 Irbil.
Through the front gate
you get inside.
Inside - a ghost town, or rather abandoned. The first thing that catches your eye - a huge flagpole. Beneath it hang soldiers. Somewhere in here they Kubla. Soldiers look to the guests did not go where you do not need, and just walked through the main street. Photos are already on the back side, because the view from the central gate quite dull.
And as the guests there, the soldiers play volleyball. Pass, in a friendly greeting. They say that pictures can be. The Citadel is passed through a few minutes. The main street goes to the other gate.
As long as you go, are within sight of soldiers - all ok. At the opposite gate, there is another post. Once the soldiers are distracted - there's a chance to slip away into side streets. Here interesting. You can wander, climb onto the roof of the abandoned houses.
May in the Kurdistan region "/>
A few years ago in the citadel of the people lived. Then people were evicted, and planned to make a tourist destination with restaurants and shops. War has broken plans, and all remains as is.
All this time the soldiers who lost you, runs around with a gun and is looking for. When will - politely ask to go back to the central street. Politely call out to you: "Hey, mister," but the finger is always on the trigger gun.
That's the second gate, from which as from the principal, there is a road to the city.
Even in the citadel is a textile museum. I am deeply uninteresting textiles, but I think I go tomorrow (now evening). Tomorrow I think and wander more, and shoot in the morning sun.
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Re: Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region.
At the main gate of the citadel wonderfully positive place to sit and look at the city, read the print LP.
That's what we see from the main gate to the side of the city ...
quarters of the market
build something big and round. In the background - a long, modern building - the new shopping center. Virtually blank. There are no Versace and gabanov. However, there are two bank branches and shops with jeans, rosettes, socks ... Anything above 1 st floor - empty completely. Cafes there either.
So all together, glued
Types of second gate
foreground-school.
High-rise building - a large hotel, but closed.
In the evening the city comes alive. Lots of people out onto the streets.
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Hard to imagine crossing without facing a police car
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Re: Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region.
I'm going to 5-star hotel, there to find coffee. Erbil International Hotel here called Sheraton'om. Sometime it and built a Sheraton. But the war changed the plans and the building was sold during the construction phase. But in all standards was built as a 5 stars. There and park and swimming pool ... The cheapest room costs $ 200 per person.
The hotel can be seen from the citadel. Ten-story glass building looks detached from the landscape architect as an error. When dohozhu before it begins the twilight.
On the perimeter fenced 4-meter fence of concrete blocks. Fence with graffiti and advertising are not portrayed in the promotional photo. But, in fact, the street is nothing but the fence is not visible.
At the entrance of vehicles visiting the mirror on the putter, and people and luggage shine like at the airport. Then each bag be felt by hand. At the entrance to the building itself is repeated. Alas - such is the price of security. For your $ 200 you are entitled to a visit to proktorlogu. Machines remain in the parking lot, 100 meters from the building. Path from the gate to the hotel passes the park on a summer restaurant, and a pond. After seeing the hotel lobby (the usual 5-star vomit), I decide to look for coffee in the summer restaurant-glass. Not looking menu, I do not know how much it's worth, I had a coffee for free.
While I was drinking coffee, the city was deserted. Again, sad longing and nothing to do. That's when the company is not enough!
Rare shops prodlozhali work
Here and there can be something else to drink
Here is the evening that can be seen from the entrance to the hotel
night wins
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Re: Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region.
In the morning he went to photograph the city. Any city is especially beautiful in the morning, yet few people and bustle. And here, at 7 am ...
Government
The minaret, or rather what was left of him - a local tourist attraction, second only to the citadel. If you get closer - there is a small park behind the fence, tent, "Coca-Cola and the minaret itself. I was early in the morning - closed.
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Re: Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region.
Fences administrative buildings in the graffiti.
In some offices hangs two flags: the Iraqi and Kurdish.
At this point, photo finishes. Soapbox dies. Next would have to shoot a primitive camera phone. Quality-phone photo causes me terrible anguish.
Returning to the Citadel, walk into a museum of textiles. Inside the women are engaged in manufacturing carpets on traditional looms. Adults are taught to the young seamstress. The museum itself is small but nice. You can sit on the couch.
Such a thing for storage of liquids. Made of animal carcasses, the inside-out. Poured through the neck, which is wrapped in lace.
Back in the museum is a detailed, large maps on the walls and pictures. I expected to see in the Kurdistan region is something like that, like in this picture:
May in the Kurdistan region "title =" Iraq. May in the Kurdistan region "/>
It was further decided to visit the Christian district of Aikawa (Aikawa). Read that there are some interesting Catholic Church of St. Joseph. Another read that Aikawa is within walking distance of the city. After seeing the first available road sign at Aikawa went for it. It turned out to go far. Every next piece of the way I hoped it was your last, and about the houses will be the dome of the church. None of those I asked for the road could not tell me where is the church. Showed only trends in Aikawa. I had a page from the guidebook, which was written the name in English (no one could read) and a picture. Then it turned out that the picture in this guide from the official website of the Ministry of Tourism is wrong. Therefore, I am nobody could help. I walked for about an hour through the wasteland, past car dealerships and some buildings. In the end, when he came to the church, it was closed. Selection of this church in order (according to the guidebook), which built it in the "Babylonian" style. The building is modern, without any historical value is not.
I walked around, found the back door. Gunners missed, thinking that I am a priest. The building was closed. There are park benches, green grass ...
After sitting for 15 minutes, went back to town. Of course, already on the taxi. So surprised the distance traversed on foot, he paid a taxi driver 5000 instead of 3000 (usually).
After lunch I was taken aback search of souvenirs. We had to find something home to his wife, children, office, friends. Until this moment I do not see anything souvenir. The hotel was found antique shop (first and last on my way). There has been inadequate price. Any piece of iron such as teapots, cups, coffee pots, and the Turks were worth 20-30 dollars. In the end, gather up a few small things, voiced "their price". Trader long resisted, but gave up. Anyway, the next buyer will go to him through the year. Souvenirs in the form of women's handbags on the carpet technology, manual work were found at the foot of the citadel. A couple of shops sell them, and various mats. No choice. It was bought. Two bags for $ 15. First I went around the stores, paving, which is usually the best souvenirs are bought in not the most tourist spots. In Kurdistan, it was found that only at the main entrance to the main attractions of the country has at least something.
The next day I had to start moving toward the border. I thought about it in a very intelligent cafe at the foot of the citadel. Very nice place. People - the local elite. In the facility exhibited books that can be removed from an old bookcase and read it. Sitting on the street, opposite the market can observe the rearrangement of something big and round.
Here, boy, clean shoes. His aides go along sitting in cafes people and poke his nose under the rubber flip flops. If you want to clean their shoes, the boy will give you a sneaker, and your shoes are clean before you drink tea.
The evening of that day was probably the most enjoyable in Kurdistan. As usual, the evening all became extinct. In the tea at the hotel I met a company of British students, just arrived from Syria (where they were studying Arabic at the university). It was the first European people who I met on the street. We talked an hour, and she even took off my camcorder . When the British took away, he immediately met with a Kurd from Britain, who came to leave their homes. While talking, the evening and received a proposal to make the company he and his friend. A friend came for us and we went to a restaurant. One of the companions was an official in the government and offered to call the minister of tourism "right now". Front of the restaurant I specifically drove on the night Aikawa (where I went during the day on foot). In the evening, a Christian district of Beirut recalled. A huge number of people, especially young people on the streets. The girls, dressed in European style. Music from all windows and doors, many different institutions, all the lights. That's where the night life! Told that this area is considered the safest. Most of the offices of major companies, including UN are found in Aikawa.
My new friend was not only in government but also the owner of the restaurant. Normal restaurant - is an area fenced, with armed guards. A lot of people, lots of drinking, lots of food. Sitting by candlelight (the light in the room turned off) to maintain the "sex". After dinner and conversation I was taken back to the hotel and was invited to a super-mega-picnic-for-its in the mountains. Unfortunately, a day picnic was supposed to be in Kiev. Instead I offered to pay for new tickets, even.
Dohuk
A small town on the way to the Turkish border. There are some interesting places around, but after the Catholic cathedral in the Babylonian-style "I've scored on all that is out of town. In Dahuk surprised the number of expensive and filled with hotels. There even has rooms for $ 60. 15-20 there was nothing. As a result, was found klopovnik for 10000 ($ 8).
In Dahuk is a dam. This modern soobruzhenie. Near the dam is good (in the sense of the best of what he saw) the park. Walk from the city center about 15 minutes.
Benches, fountains ...
There are playgrounds.
Dam itself hangs over the park. You can walk along the road ahead and climb to the dam. Here it offers a real beauty. Blue Lake, the mountains ... So you want to step back and leave.
The road to the dam itself
Dam itself, in the direction of
In the lake
Before the beginning of the park is steep staircase to the top. Here the remnants of the Zoroastrian buildings that have been signed plates.
For example, the fire temple.
May in the Kurdistan region "/>
In the bowl of eternal fire settled toad.
Here, the park is a cave and waterfall, which then flows to the road on which we climbed. But the main thing - it certainly views of the dam (it is in the background with the flag).
On the slopes you can climb. There are many paths and all sorts of benches, gazebos ... Local go there for family picnics, and young people - pozazhimatsya
In addition to the dam in the city there is nothing interesting. So, a couple of streets and markets. What should I do more of the day - hard to understand.
The Internet cafe has pleased the design page of Google.
Later in the afternoon, having nothing to-do, once again went to the dam.
There are many police officers, as well as everywhere in Kurdistan.
The next night in Dohuk, the apparent lack of things to do gave me the idea is not to spend the night here, and go at night in Zakho. So, to be on the border as late as possible, spend the night somewhere near the border and in the morning to go to Turkey. So it was quieter (Turkish bus schedules were not, and how long the border crossing - do not know, the evening flight home).
Homeward Bound.
About 8 pm took things out of the paid hotel (well, and figs with those eight bucks!). Hours from 10 pm was at the border. Taxi from Dohuk ehalo in Zakho, but if you need - luck to the border of 15000. Again, turn fuel tankers and trucks. And here is the parking in front of the customs office at which to begin this journey ...
Cross the border at that time had no meaning, because would have been in Turkey in the evening. Better to hang out at the border. Taxi drivers attacked as a last chance to go home today. But passengers do not have and they are waiting in the morning. For taxis to fill half parking spaces. Parking behind the fence on one side - all sorts of interesting vennaya technique, on the other hand, the customs building - a bridge to Turkey.
Right near the customs building is eatery. Prices usually have the TV and then while away servants, taxi drivers and myself. Food is normal. The institution is working around the clock. You can sit there or sleep all you want.
Closer to midnight, the taxi drivers were scattered on his trunk, and I tried to nap. It is still more interesting than a night in Dohuk. I did not lose the opportunity to talk with someone, find out how the border and how it can proceed without the assistance of a taxi.
In theory, the bridge can not walk. To do this, on the border and live Turkish taxi drivers - are transported across the bridge and issue documents.
After watching telly, drinking tea, talking to people, by 6-7 in the morning I went to storm the border. The first thing to be - to put an exit stamp. This is done in a nearby building with a canteen. In the lobby sits three (hours). One - at the table makes a copy of your passport. Two others - in the windows. The first - puts stamp on a fresh copy of the passport, the next - makes an exit stamp in their passport. All: no payments and issues. It was assumed that these sophisticated manipulations should do for you, a taxi driver.
Where to go next? Show a hand pointer arrow "Turkey - there." On the way - hut in which a person is surprised that I'm going to walk. Shows the gestures that I need to go back to the parking lot and a taxi ride by car. Skip can not, because From this point I should be in the list annexed to the car. I show gestures that all taxi drivers are asleep, and I have a bus in Turkey after an hour and a plane ...
By booth car drove up, not a taxi, and the soldier asked the driver to smuggle me across the bridge. The man agrees. In the car - a couple of bags of cigarettes. For the driver, I have - a gift of fate. Double no problem to take out so many cigarettes, and one - is risky. Shall enter me in your form.
We drive through the gates. Iraqis released easily, do not inspect. To my bag is not touched. Information about the fact that all the photo and video browsing, and the seams on the shorts be felt - was relevant 2-3 years ago. I have not had a single issue.
Bridge, yellow stripe ...
Turks are not nihilists like the Iraqis.
- Where were you?
- In northern Iraq (Kurdistan is not)
- What is luck?
To find fault with my bag. There's auto headlights. Three minutes later, after the "turkey gud, gud ukraine, football, Shevchenko ... Very Good ..." miss. Carrier was very glad that I took. Yet decided the fate of my luggage, contraband cigarettes no one was interested. Then, when we drove on, still drove and his colleagues took a couple of blocks "for me." 20 minutes in a queue 2.3 driver took to running around the driver's papers on the car and passenger lists. I put an entry stamp on a monthly multivisa. Another half hour and I was dropped off at the bus station in Silopi. Driver of its kind has shown that money from me can not wait. In the end, crossing the border for free.
Just a bus in Diarbakir and after 5 hours I landed in the city at the turn to the airport. Go to the airport for about 10 minutes, or 30-40 from the center on foot.
The day was spent on coffee, sightseeing, eating kebabs and baklava. In Diarbakire the remnants of the fortress wall. One very long and takes you to walk. In one direction is not less than an hour. On the one hand - residential slum neighborhoods, on the other - the park.
Evening flight, a night in Istanbul and in the morning - the house. In the home airport of Borispol again toetovskie lights please men in uniform, but I have yet to drove home. When they learned I was coming out of Iraq trying to find something in a box with baklava. Where we are not standing
If there was more time, not waiting to the house and would not have been a couple of unfinished projects in the office ...
Type of Kirkuk on top. There is also a stronghold.
People who have anything to say about Kirkuk but "sikir-chump," said that this city more interesting and more colorful than the Kurdish city. Kirkuk has been twice on the road and the road touches it, so near and far ...
With regard to the major Iraqi «must see» - Babylon.
Right - the very ancient city. On the left, a spiral road palace of Saddam
At the bottom of the photo - a military base, because of which there will not get in normal.
Here are some photos of distant acquaintance (with permission) that there was a promotion. Thus, reveal ...
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And finally, the most important thing! This is a copy, but still impressive.
That palace on the banks of which a spiral road
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The builders of a bright future
Directly to the walls of ancient Babylon leaned against a military base
Few Baghdad
Closer. Can someone comment on that for a system with multiple channels?
It's there. what remained of the power
The Palace of a
Rent affordable condos in Baghdad 
"Peacekeepers" would not have to settle somewhere horrible
May in the Kurdistan region "/>
Let's hope that when the war is over, what remains is to watch
 Author: Mykola Talk: http://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?f=729&t=70884
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