My second trip to Italy. A year ago, managed to see places in northern Italy, on his way from Turin to Venice. At this time the plans were to call in Italy through the Alps from Munich to stay a few days at Garden City to look around Verona, then go to Florence, Tuscany travel around and come back again in Munich through Verona. Departure was scheduled on April 24, the return - 11 th May.
Munich
April 24. In Munich, was already spring. After Moscow, with its snow and piercing wind, it seemed a miracle. Blossomed chestnut, cherry, lilac. Bloomed all. In the air hung the smell of cherry-resistant. Ran on the local beer, was Friday night, people everywhere were packed like sardines. Pleased at this time Augustiner. There was no place in the institution failed to break through only nine-thirty, but it was worth it. It was surprisingly fun, shouting songs, jumping on the benches. Roar was such that the antlers on the walls shook. Was in the Augustiner many times, but this Veselukha, in the spirit Hofbro, first saw 
Proshvyrnulsya Munich on the night, suddenly discovered it for himself as a rave city. Usually, after many liters of beer, to study the nightlife in Munich is not reached. Turned out to be the same as that on the streets, diverging fan of fairgrounds, life abounds. Nightclubs, live music, almost everywhere you turn at the entrance. Pleased 
In the morning the sun shone again, fairly partially forgotten in Moscow. Mood, despite yesterday's beer was excellent and leave Munich painfully did not want. However, tickets were already bought and waiting ahead of Italy.
Train
Took the tickets in advance via the website of Deutsche Bahn, and with no small hemorrhoids. Reservation was only the third time, he really did not understand why. Until then, the site gave a message that no tickets, and it is one and a half months before the trip. As it turned out, to reserve tickets for a reason. The train was a full house. Ad struck the driver, just like in an airplane "I am so and so, so and so, I'll keep this train, etc., etc.". And so in three languages.
Go tell that went this way in Italy is not casual. It has long wanted to see the Alps from the train window. In principle, the expectations were met. The weather was excellent, space - an unusual beauty. In the alpine valleys of all the blossoming, the river flowed with turquoise water, on the banks of grazed fatty Bavarian cows. In the background stood a mountain in the snow. This is the beauty lasted up to the border with Austria. Then came the industrial buildings, construction sites, sawmills. Ladybirds replaced transformer station. In general, the approach to a sense of Innsbruck Alpine idyll gone completely. Near Pass Brenner place again went surprisingly beautiful. But it was a beauty of another kind, is more severe. Greens are fewer trees were almost no leaves. Mountains became steeper, deeper cliffs, waterfalls appeared. Views of the valley opens really grand. Characteristically, these places we drove in silence. If gay species possess the Bavarian Alps to the conversation, the austere beauty of these places require silence. After Brenner road abruptly came down. Reappeared flowering cherries, and behind them, and vineyards. Recognizable Italian landscape.
A couple of things surprised me in the Italian Alps. First - how high in the mountains grew grapes. And this despite the fact that space there is clearly still not hot. Second - the fact that all signs at the stations were duplicated in German. According to a local Italian, a neighbor in the compartment until the end of World War II in these places at all the Italian no one heard, and now the local villages to speak mostly in German.
Verona
Verona met with bright sunshine, blooming roses and ready to bloom limes.BBC angry forecast of 13 degrees and pouring rain did not materialize.
From Corso Porto Nuovo have a great view on the snow-capped Alps:
Verona in the last visit showed me a fabulous city. By the number of pictures taken with it competed only Venice. Put them last time, and apart from me on the forum they laid out repeatedly. Shall therefore confine only one photo.
Colonized at the Scalzi. Choose your hotel from budget considerations, but so that the center could reach about ten minutes. During his 65 euro hotel was quite a decent option, and that suddenly, clearly better hotel in Munich for the same money. On the walls hung pictures in the hallways was a statue, it's all good, as it turned out later sold. This here is a hybrid of hotel and art gallery. Of the advantages of the hotel yet, I note that at night, starting at 4 hours, under the window the birds were singing. Sleep with the window wide open, listening to it for kicks.
Heading toward the center of Verona, watched what has changed in the year. For the most part - nothing. Restored the Duomo and the tomb was closed for restoration Skaligeri. People have not diminished, in Via Mazzini was such a crowd that the Moscow metro during rush hour would envy her. ... ..
It should be noted that five and a half hour train journey a little tired. And it was a strong desire to drink wine, which I did not resist. A pair of glasses in the clearings osteria come at an opportune moment. The price of 2 euros for a glass too much. A year ago, these drinking establishments somehow passed me. Now, after looking, I found them in Verona at every step. The case went quietly to a close and wanted to finally fall greedily to Italian cuisine. The more that the day was eaten by a salty Bavarian pretzel with a liter, again, Bavarian, and milk. It was not there. Crowds of tourists have played a cruel joke. All restaurants, trattoria and osteria were packed to capacity. Go to the same scene, in the heart of the tourist itch, did not want to categorically. In the end, went to the restaurant at La Torretta Bridge St. Peter's, where a year ago, it was quite bearable. However, here too there was a bummer, but other properties. Carpaccio, born at a hefty plate, composed of five petals microscopic meat. Pasta, again brought on a huge plate, weighing fifty grams but not more. It is not difficult to guess that the meat that was brought later, also had to look for on a plate. At this point, I realized that I hate the advanced kitchen  I hate with every fiber of the soul. It's just a perversion, to try to create a dish some ikebana, instead of austere make lots and lots of tasty grub. In the end, leaving the restaurant more than a hundred euros, I got angry and hungry as hell and went to a pizza San Matteo, on the Corso Porta Borsari. Institution not known for culinary delights and has been chosen by local young people who preferred to order a pizza and beer. But the pasta dish served whole and not the tenth part of it. There's also discovered a new drink. All the local drinking something like snow in a glass. Turned out to be vodka sorbet. That's funny. In the homeland of vodka a welcome cocktail did not have 
The next day on good weather was gone. It was pouring rain, strong winds, the temperature hardly falls short of 15 degrees. BBC nakarkalo yet. Bastards In such weather on a trip to the Garda could not be considered. As a result, took up a detour around the city the first of which was Vicenza.
Vicenza
Modest provincial town. Two hours was enough for me to something to get around it along, across and along the rim. Perhaps the matter is that had rain, but the city gave me the impression not made.Like everything in it was, the towers and cathedrals, and palaces. But somehow the budget, with no frills. The only thing to remember - the locals love to his distinguished compatriot, the architect Palladio. His name in everything. Streets and hotels, cafes and restaurants, and even the Discount card to visit the local museum bears the name Palladio.
The very center of Vicenza, the statue is easy to guess who:
Winding streets, filled with rain:
Signoria Tower, amid gloomy sky:
One of several Venetian palaces of the city:
Still some remnants of luxury:
Statues in the courtyard of the theater Olimpico, built again, Palladio:
Again, Verona
After spending half a day in Vicenza back again in Verona. Still was nasty rain. Desire to taste the wine at such an early time was not, but the weather did not leave a choice. I must say that in Verona, I drank only two kinds of wine, Valpolicella Superiore and Amarone. Not counting, of course, Prosecco, which pilas not from scientific interest, as well as to maintain the mood Here is the time to distract from the description of Italian beauty and say a few words about wine.
Wine
A year ago, I, to my shame, did not know about the existence of Amarone. This time, the opportunity to taste Amarone I did not miss. What wine to the expectations, we could not write. Struck by how Amarone can be different in taste, from the vigorous dry wine with a strong taste of tannins to the fragrant wine with an intense bouquet of berries or fruits.
From what tasted, like most Buglione - very dry, with a strong bitter aftertaste. And I Salrati, with a surprisingly strong taste some berries
Taste I Salrati particularly impressed. Only now I understood what was meant originally a "taste of wild berries, jaded term in descriptions of wines, including the most lousy. Taste I Salrati was as if the wine was not made from grapes but from chokeberry or something like that. On the back of the bottle was present intriguing inscription «unfiltered wine». Inquired on the Internet what it is, it turned out - the wine is not filtered in the last stage before bottling. I suspect that it is the presence of fine particulate matter and gives the wine a strong taste.
I note that both the wine - produce small cooperatives. Took him in Verona at the price of 35-40 euros per bottle. Arriving home, asked where exactly is the wine you can find. It turned out that almost anywhere.In addition to these wines of Verona is a shtatovskih shops in our Rashe - not as a class 
Of the others tried to produce Amarone Masi, Tommasi, Zenato and several other manufacturers, about a dozen varieties. Except for one case where they poured some kind of sour, the wines were excellent and quite different in taste. However, such a strong impression as the two above mentioned varieties are not produced. Compared with Buglione and I Salrati products of large firms is clearly not enough bright personality. Immediately say, that tried to cost options for Amarone, to wines costing 700 euros as a hand have not reached 
With respect to production of large and small farms came up with the next idea. Large firms need to produce much wine. Accordingly, you need a lot of grapes, and the good and the same. And where is his lot to take, if on each side of the hill it's different? As a result, interfere with good grapes with grapes worse and mixed berries with flavors that would be better not to interfere. In general, the situation is somewhat analogous to the situation with blended whiskey and single MELT. I'm not a great connoisseur of wine, if you wrote some sort of heresy, please correct.
I will note one more time. Labels Buglione and I Salrati I liked much more than classical labels Amarone, with curls and a round hat (a label from Masi, eg., And they have one). This, incidentally, is important. Typically, that good wine can not be in a bottle with a bad label on my memory is almost always worked. So, the classical label seemed to me a chur pop, somehow not relevant outstanding merit of wine. Strict same label Buglione contrary accurately reflects the classical nature of wine. As a gay label I Salrati fully comply with its bright berry-fruit taste. Paper these two labels as much. Thick, rough, standing on the sensations of money. Another plus to producers.
Add a few words about the Valpolicella Superiore. Took her usually with food. Still, at Amarone in his best options, so strong and vivid taste, the taste of food is completely clogged. In this regard Superiore proved to be more suitable option. Most liked Masi Serego Alighieri, with an inscription on the label of "25 Years of something." On the occasion of the anniversary winemakers obviously tried, the taste of wine is strongly reminiscent of my favorite Amarone Buglione. By coincidence, the wine is also usually cost 25 euros. If anyone knows a winery owned by the family itself Alighieri, who gave the world Dante. Furthermore Seryoga Alighieri likes yet Sant. Antonio Superiore, strong, thick, dark, also recalls the taste of Amarone.
Ending a conversation about the local wine to say that a desire poissledovat this topic more deeply. Ride through the villages in the region, Valpolicella, buy wine on-site production, not in Verona.
And again, Verona
By evening the city there was a surprising metamorphosis. Then the rain washed away all visitors, whether on the occasion on Sunday all went home. Institutions are not just free but absolutely empty. In the trattoria, where I was unable to supper the day before, greeted with open arms. But yesterday the waitresses all kind showed confusion about my presence in their establishment. However, I was eager for him after all in vain. Since them, fed to anywhere in Moscow Ambar, for example Valpolicella in the trattoria was also quite poshiba Moscow. However, some pros still are. After visiting the institution life will sparkle with new paint 
With pleasure, despite the rain, at night poshatalsya Verona.On the streets there was not a soul in the washed out to shine the marble pavement reflected the lights. It was in Kaifu
Restaurants
I will make another short digression. With the meal there was a grand fiasco  Big mistake was not to write off from the forum addresses of restaurants, reviews, Verona, there is a normal kitchen. But I do it for some reason not found. The food was not that bad, she was ordinary, without any frills. In the end, exhausted tourist kitchen, I began to go to dinner at Peskieru on Garde (15 minutes by train from Verona). There, too, everything was designed for tourists, but local restaurateurs have not yet been spoiled by the flow of people. As a result, better fed, and it cost all-in-half to two times cheaper.
I must say that from my mistakes I made conclusions. Copied from the forum all the addresses printed out and put it in daddy, before your next trip
Mantua
The next day. The weather was as nasty as before. Complete ass. In Mantua, very much like to see for myself the famous fresco Mantegny that went all the albums on the art of the Renaissance. One that depicts the Gonzaga court in all its ceremonial splendor. Aged Duke with narrowed eyes, witch-duchess, advisers with hooked noses and courtiers with mug brick, dressed in the latest fashion of the time. In the multi-colored tights, one white, the other pink. Complementing the magnificence of this malicious dwarf and a dog, staring ominously at the audience. Clearly felt the idea for this picture: the family of Gonzaga's finger in his mouth is better not put any
Here it is:
But even here there was a bummer  Somehow I forgot what it was Monday and the museums are in the habit on this day to organize yourself off. Looking description of the Palazzo Ducale on the Internet, I realized that I lost a lot. Palazzo with frescoes painted from top to bottom, and not just on this topic. See here and here
Like the historical center of Mantua, was a complete sense of what life here has died 500 years ago.
Strict medieval buildings:
Empty streets:
Sewer in front of the Palazzo Ducale:
In general, the city was quite a match for bleak weather Immediately make a reservation, the most advantageous view of the city I photographed. The city is surrounded by three very large lakes and the best view of it opens from the opposite shore, when all the historic buildings fall into the frame. Was without a car and trek across the bridge on foot, I will not do.
Brescia
Hit the city by accident.Going to go to Bologna, but the train to Bologna abolished and wait for the next two o'clock I did not. Expect to see Vicenza, side view. And lose. The city has produced surprisingly good impression, and this despite the nasty weather is enchanting. Contrast, after Vicenza banal and too harsh Mantua conspicuous. Likes to roam around the city. Despite the fairly straight for the old city streets was a feeling that you go through a maze. Because of each corner or turn suddenly could appear sizeable cathedral or palace. It was fun. Later realized, where the effect of the labyrinth came from. City, though the old one, built up high enough houses, often in 5-7 floors, behind which one can easily overlook the cathedral or tower in a few tens of meters.
Several species of Brescia:
City Centre:
Astronomical Clock close-up:
Fountain:
Near the center of town is a hill with a Venetian fortress. The castle was built in the 16 th century, to reflect the Austrians. At the top of the fortress is a museum of weapons. The collection is not very rich, but interesting things there. In general, in case of rain can be visited.
The front gate of the fortress:
Sad Venetian lion on guard the fortress. Immediately obvious that was put on a decline of the republic.
A park around the castle, which bloomed and birds sang chestnuts. The air was the fragrance of flowers, views of the area to impress. It was interesting to walk around the park, even in the rain
View of the city from the fortress:
Another one:
Urban neighborhoods in close-up:
Wandering the streets of Brescia, caught myself thinking that I like this bardachnaya building when the house sits on the House This has some charm. Specifically, in the Italian cities at some point, a chief architect of the city did not exist. This thought came to mind not only in the breach. The same is true when the house nalezaet the house, he saw in Venice, and not only there.
In general, the three cities examined from almost incessant rain, Brescia made a pleasant impression.
Bologna
I must say the city like it. Weather also is doing better, in general, rest began to come to normal.
Hallmark of the city, two towers, in the heart of Bologna:
Greater height of the tower - a hundred meters, you can climb up, only 500 steps. Forces on this feat was not found
If you believe the handbook, the city had more than 200 towers, but then they posnosili. Demolition, however, is not at the root, and to a height of around knowledge. Almost every neighborhood has seen such stumps. With a smaller tower at all was an interesting story. Neighbors Asinelli family, owners of hundred-meter tower, could not stand the rise of competitors, and began to build next to his, apparently with the desire to put it even higher. However, they are not so lucky. Whether the architect had miscalculated, or soil failure, as a result of the tower began to heel and construction abandoned. Imagine the joy of family Asinelli about this 
From a distance the roll of the tower in the eye is not evident, but if you stand between the towers and look up, the feeling is just amazing. All present, where parallel lines must cross, but also here they overlap considerably lower and right in over your head. There is a complete sense of what the two towers are going to crumble like you on top.
Just a few of Bologna:
Central Square, the Kremlin with the characteristic teeth:
Another curve tower:
The fountain in the central square, with the girls
When you walk in the center of Bologna, clearly feel that the city in his time not only flourished, but was fabulously rich.
Such are the fragments of decoration of buildings are found everywhere:
Another snippet:
Unfortunately, as in most Italian cities, all these wonders of art and architecture in need of restoration.
That building is on me the most lasting impression:
The walls of the courtyard, entirely covered with frescoes and sculptures:
Such:
And these:
Ceilings, painted murals:
If you pay attention, the painting is almost non stop:
Imagine my surprise when I learned that this is not a palace and cathedral, and even local Signoria, and the library. How then immediately remembered that the first university in Europe, opened it in Bologna. That's what it means to truly love science
Speaking of Bologna, one can not forget that this is not only a center of science, but also the center of the culinary arts. Spaghetti Bolognese and lasagna from here originally. The fact that the food here are special, seen on how to sell products. Personally, I was struck by an absolutely incredible assortment of pastas, a variety of shapes and colors.
Street in the heart of the city, where they sell local gastronomy:
Showcase local store. Form to the right, toward the cheese:
Form to the left, toward the hams:
Reverent attitude toward the kitchen was manifested in the fact that all schools operate strictly by the hour, closed for lunch after 14 hours of the day and open in the evening, after a 19. No reverence for hungry tourists. On this day otprobovat local cuisine was not possible, but it was lucky a couple of days, travel to Florence. I'll write about it separately, because impressions left the sea.
Garda
Finally, the establishment of normal weather and you could go to the lake. Went to Garda by train from Verona to Peskiery 15 minutes to Desenzano - 25. On the lake moved to block the steamer. Managed to hold on a lake just a half days, I should say that this is not the time for such a place. From one edge of the ship is 3 hours, stops with about twenty to inspect all right, you need five days, no less. In general, the mind must go to the Garda for a week, preferably two. I am also a half day managed to see only the southern part of the lake, and the superficial.
Desenzano
As much as this city is different from Verona! Typical southern seaside resort. Palm trees, expensive hotels. People there was virtually no off-season. Cafes were half-empty, were engaged in one - two tables. According to the impressions of the place is strongly reminiscent of Como. The discreet charm of the bourgeoisie, I would describe it.
Half-empty streets:
Central Square:
A cafe near the port:
Another type, the local castle in the background:
Audience:
Of the public a different story. No one not in a hurry - this is key to understanding the lifestyle in Desenzano. At the local public everything in life is good, they have nowhere to hurry, and not why. Tourists wearing as if they inserted a petard in the ass and clerks, late for work, not in Desenzano as a class.
Very typical episode of local life. In anticipation of the steamer ordered coffee and a croissant. On the table sat a sparrow, absolutely not frightened. Sitting in the twenty centimeters from my hand and clearly strove to steal my lunch. All my attempts to drive away the feathered predator had no success At some point, a sparrow, even managed to sneak bun with a dish on the table, and this despite the fact that the croissant was at least twice as much himself.
Just a few of Desenzano:
Vehicles:
The one smaller - speedboat, one that larger - low-speed ferry.
Lighthouse on the background of snow-capped Alps:
Sirmione
Place, of course, extremely colorful. Consists of a long narrow spit, jutting far into the lake. The town itself is at the end of the spit.
View from the lake:
Another, larger:
And another:
The place is definitely the trump, and deserves to visit. But not without drawbacks. The number of tourists exceeds all conceivable limits. Here we must bear in mind that the braid is fairly narrow, about seventy feet in the fort, plus the place is very densely built up. The presence of even one thousand of tourists makes it a madhouse.
Hotels on the coast:
Another hotel in the heart of Sirmione:
Not lazy, and looked on the internet prices. To my surprise, even in the best place you can settle down from 150 euros. A little further away from the center - a quite usual 70-80 euros.
So Sirmione looks from the inside:
Restaurant deep in Sirmione:
Besides the natural beauty of the place known Roman ruins and the fact that he loved to live here the poet Catullus, whose choices I approve of
Roman ruins on the edge of the spit, as always, the grand size:
Lazise - Bardolino - Garda
By and large this is a resort area with a total quay. From edge to edge you can walk for half an hour. Place enough budget. This is evident from the fact that they drink and eat than trade, and at the same audience. Funny thing: sell the same name in Bardolino wine, poured into glass gun, just like in Sheremetyevo vodka, poured into a Kalashnikov rifle. Try the contents of desires have arisen By the way, it is in Bardolino most clearly feel that much more Como mazhoristoe place compared to the Garda.
Although fiscal and rezanula eye, place still liked it. Do you like the style of life: driving on steamboats on the lake, biking along the waterfront, climbing the surrounding mountains. Generally had a strong desire to stay here for a week.
Lazise:
Center of Lazise close-up:
Port of Lazise in the rays of the setting sun:
Bardolino:
View from Bardolino in the direction of Garda, is clearly seen that in the area of Garda already started good slides:
Garda:
Peskiera
Quite an interesting place for a simple fishing village. Firstly, the whole village is cut channels, just like Venice.In the second, there is unimaginable dimensions of the fort, surrounded on all sides of the channel. What and from whom he was defending - for me it remains a complete mystery. Third, in Peskiere many trattorias and restaurants a very attractive appearance. Had dinner there a couple times before going to Verona. Liked it. Special delights was not, but all soundly and reasonably priced. Amarone was from 25 euros per bottle. The audience - mostly to vacationers Garde Germans. Characteristically, the German translation of the menu was above and half English signage in the stores were also in German.
Channels Peskiery evening:
Restaurants:
Mossy fort, opposite the fort - a floating restaurant:
In summary
Was in the north-east of Italy twice, finally realized that I want from this place.
- Firstly, I want to come here again
- To live for a week at the Garden, and visit local villages, climb the mountains, ride a bike.
- To spend several days in Verona, rasprobovat Finally, the local cuisine.
- Ride on Valpolicella wine farms.
- Trains on the car on the Alps.
- View the Treviso area, Konegliano, both because of prosecco, and just out of curiosity
- Look again at Venice. That view is not getting inside of the nest. For example, on the way to Murano and Burano where I have not been.
In general, the case is still a couple of trips will be typed
Transfer to Florence
Departure to Florence was scheduled for the first of May. April 30 I fear that such a date and on such a direction is to take tickets in advance. The thought occurred to the apparent delay. Tickets were not. In the end, bought a ticket to the regional train to Bologna, an open-ended and without a fixed location. However, seats on the train because of the ticket purchase is not increased. I had to go on a folding chair in a corridor that, with the baggage was dubious pleasure. In Bologna, the story of the tickets will be continued. Automatic ticket selling refused, the regional train to Florence lacked the class. The situation is clearly beginning to strain. Remained the last hope for the cashier and she did not disappoint my expectations, found a ticket to first class on trains leaving after two and a half hours. I'll tell you what to ride first class, if not strange, I liked it  Public popriyatnee, car cleaner, wider seat. Africans, singing in full voice folk songs, with imbedded and prihlopami, was noted. In contrast to the second class, where these scenes had to see.
In general, in my possession was more than two hours to re-examination of Bologna. Irony of Fate. If you strongly to try and immediately know where to go, Bologna during this time can be viewed. So, especially in Bologna could not ride.
Shl. As for regional trains from Bologna to Florence, I figured out later. They are still there, and it would be strange if they were not. It should be the same locals as a ride for reasonable money. Just do not go train to Florence and Prato, and from Prato to Florence is within reach, again on a regional board.
Again, Bologna
Beauty Bologna were inspected last time, it was lunchtime, and what to spend it no doubt arise. The place was looked after during our last visit, a restaurant in the heart, in the lanes next to piazza Maggiore.It was just a cafe, that is, institution does not specialize in gourmet kitchen. However, the same cafe has managed to please a decent meal, and his entourage. It was the art-cafe, with designer crockery, paintings on the walls and jazz. Selection of music, as well as design cafe were five plus. Sounded Armstrong, Sinatra and Fly me to the moon. Food was also good. Like a salad of octopus, with the correct temperature of the ingredients (part of the hot, part cold), and lasagna Bolognese, made of an incredible pasta green. The contrast with the tourism kitchen was great. Very clearly felt that the people here are doing everything for themselves, not for tourists.
However, food and design refinements are not the main thing that surprised me in an institution. Once again a stunning impression on me manners staff. Lunch time has ended, the people of almost all sold out. Waiters also finished work. One of them, removing the corporate apron and sat down at the table to his friend. Crossed his legs, and (OMG!) lit a cigar. Presumably, master's champagne, he also drank regularly So imagine a similar scene somewhere in the Cafe Pushkin, the administrator, who lost his voice and the guests choking on oysters. Here they all looked quite authentic.
Florence
The first sensation of the town was - mess. From the very beginning it was clear that the marble pavement, the more a mirror of purity, in Florence will not. The hotel was also a match for the city and gloomy lodging-house. It cost 65 euros the same as in Verona, but for the money there was not something that the paintings on the walls, was not even a normal towel and water in the toilet. Ie, sometimes it was, but not when I was at the hotel. Complements the bleak picture of the consumptive Chinese wall. Visitor from China coughed with such anguish that I stole the impression that he is not until the morning dotyanet 
That is with such thoughts about avian flu, quarantine, and perhaps even premature death, began inspection of Florence I have to say, the city, after seven days spent in it, left a mixed impression. Feeling the garbage has not disappeared, and in the afternoon at the center of Florence, I preferred not to meddle. But at night to see the masterpieces of Florence was very much on a high. There were no crowds of tourists and traders, hopelessly breaking the mood, and you can calmly and in detail to consider, and the cathedral, and Signoria buildings, and statues in the square in front of her.
I must say that when we look at all that impressed. For example, at first glance I was surprised by the cathedral only the abundance of green marble and careful finish. Later I noticed a striking proportion of forms. The dome looked organically from any point, front, rear and side, as well as from any distance. And even if it was partially obstructed, he still looked great. In general, walking at night through the city center, I discovered many interesting things.
If we talk more about general impressions of the city, then in Florence, plus you can put the existence of night life. If the center of Verona at midnight was open only one bar, then in Florence, these bars were a few dozen. The main public places - an area of the cathedral of Santa Croce and the opposite bank of the Arno, Ponte Vecchio to the left.
Day of the area in front of the cathedral of Santa Croce is as follows:
On a daily fair in the square:
Trade, including the wine on tap.If you pay attention, the wine is part of isstradavshihsya tourists It's amazing, the wine stalls on the square to work even after 11 pm, late at night by Italian standards.
Add a few more words about the cuisine and wine, before moving on to the story of the Uffizi, Bargello and the Pitti Palace.
Kitchen
Finally, it appeared, for the second week trip to Italy. As is the case with Verona, a list of decent restaurants in Florence, I did not. However, walking in the institutions almost at random, miscalculated a couple of times. Intuition I was immediately prompted that next to the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria in the culinary and gastronomic plan to do nothing. And the guide also advised to eat on the shore of the Arno. The main cluster of restaurants and trattorias are there in two locations: the right of the Ponte Veho, the second from the waterfront street, and next to the Cathedral of Santo Spirito. Recommend a few of them:
- Trattoria Borgo Antico, on Piazza Santo Spirito. Been there three times, a couple of times for lunch and one supper. Go tell, the house easily and for special occasions are unlikely to fit. Personally, I prefer it for lunch. Fed to five plus. All three times the paste has been exemplary. I could not tear myself away from it even in order to make a sip of wine. And this despite the fact that the portions were very decent size. In the evenings, especially from 8 to 9, the house scored the eyeballs (which, incidentally, applies to all decent people).
- Cammillo Trattoria at Borgo Sant Jacopo. Visited twice. Classic interior, the staff at the age of the audience - mostly local. Specialize in fish, although the meat is also okay. It was here my first time got the idea to ask, but what exactly in their institution is better to eat and drink. Before this question was afraid, thinking stuff from surprise dish poronyaet
- Il Santo Bevitore, on Via di Santo Spirito. Mod institution, the style is radically different from the previous two. In addition to the kitchen impressed classy interior and a relaxed style of service. The audience - mostly young people, staff and early twenties.
Add another touch to the story. In the first two schools took the trouble to approach the administrators and tell them a special thank you for the wonderful cuisine. What a lot of them surprised
Wine
Wine, unlike food, is not impressed. Reacted to this by-philosophically. If somewhere something was added, somewhere, something should be, and subtract. If we talk about Tuscan wine at all, then it I conditionally divided into two categories: that which you can drink and something that stands in the throat. Neither of which the range of taste, as in the case of Amarone, the speeches here do not even passed. After the wines of Veneto felt clearly one feature of local wine - the presence of bitter taste, which usually feel when nadkusyvaesh grapeseed. In a cheap wine it looked like an obvious flaw in the road, such as Brunello, could pass for an individual chip wines. By the way, the locals were also low opinion of his guilt. Almost every restaurant except the local wines were present wines of Piedmont, and they often stood in the wine map in the first place. Nothing like it in the Veneto was not there the usual practice was the presence in the institution only local wines.Funny touch: their own eyes saw the trader at the market selling tourist Piedmont bottle of wine, assuring the buyer that is currently Piedmontese wine and no local grapes there not a mixture of In general, hello Tuscan winemakers
If we talk about individual grades, the Chianti region, in some sense justified expectations. That is, I'm from it anything extraordinary was not expecting, and in this regard, my expectations were met by 100% From Noble de Montepulciano happened bummer. Both times in the bottles was kind of a rare sour, I can not believe that with such a taste of wine can get the name "Noble". So the study of this class postponed to the future. That discovered for myself on this trip, so it's Rosso di Montalcino. A perfectly acceptable option. Resembles the taste of Brunello, which is not surprising, since Brunello, too, comes from Montalcino.
About Brunello separate conversation. Truly I did rasprobovali only in the Montalcino, about which I'll write more. And on top of it to me any impression is not made, later understood why. In Florence, I ordered the Brunello on trial, a glass. Wine was poured from the already opened the bottle and it has had time to decant trite. And when decanting taste Brunello varies greatly, not the direction that I like. So if you decide to take Brunello, I advise you to take the whole bottle to get a feel of its original flavor.
The opposite bank of the Arno
This part of Florence like me without any reservations. In contrast to the historic center, where the outstanding merits are mixed with an equally outstanding flaws in this part of town it was much calmer and more harmonious. I liked the parks and splendid views from the hills in the center of Florence.
The view from the observation deck at the park at the Pitti Palace:
Another one:
Pitti Palace at all impressed, not so much the building itself, how many huge parks of the palace. But that absolutely did not like is the fact that for visiting parks have to pay 10 euros. Theoretically, you pay not only for the inspection of parks, but also for visits to several museums. Porcelain Museum, the Museum of clothes, etc. However, the museums were full razvodilovym. The contents of the museum porcelain inferior to the quality of the content of any china shops in the city. I can not imagine that the Medici ate with these blue-bordered saucers. Is that the janitors yes driver Salient point. The museum porcelain was a lot of people, and though a slowed down to look more closely at the exhibits. All flew out of the museum by a bullet
But the park was at the same time very good. Furthermore faery types of the city attended the fountains and statues in countless numbers, as well as thickets of a variety of colors.
The top of the hill on which the park is located at the Pitti Palace.Rose garden with a fountain:
Statue, lost in the bush:
Track, overgrown with flowers:
The right of the Pitti Palace (if you look at the city center) is another hill to the church San Miniato al Monte on top. Views of the historic center there better and more money-per-view there is no longer taken.
View of the bridge:
If you look closely, even from this distance can be seen a monstrous amount of people on the Ponte Vecchio.
View of the historic center:
Separately, the Duomo:
And separately on the building Signoria:
The facade of San Miniato al Monte frescoed 13th century:
Rose Park, just below the church:
The view from the park of roses at the center of the city:
Funny moment. As I walked along the shore of the Arno from the Pitti Palace in San Miniato, then to his indescribable surprise, found floating down the river nutria, healthy as a horse. If we consider that the water in the Arno color bude pohlesche than in the Moscow River, to see there is something alive, I never expected.
Here it is, beauty:
Among the other colorful places in Florence would like to note the central market.
With similar shops:
And with tiled paintings on the walls:
To picture the place - the wall edalni market. Interestingly, the audience of this institution at 11 o'clock in the morning looked exactly like the picture
We now say a few words about the museums of Florence.
Bargello
Second in rank after the Uffizi museum in Florence. The main content of the collection Bargello - sculpture.Presented by Donatello, Michelangelo, Cellini, Giambologna, Bernini and others. The level of collection is very high.
The main star of the collection (if not taken into account by Bernini, which separate conversation), IMHO, "David" by Donatello works:
Go tell, photos, even in the first approximation does not reflect the quality of this thing. Surprising year of creation of sculpture, the 1430th. At this time, all sculptors, polls, sculptured saints, with views to the stubborn sky. They are also represented in the Bargello, the contrast is fantastic.
Well-known "Mercury Giambologna is also in the Bargello:
Something of the works exhibited in the Bargello, is available here. Again, make a reservation, photo does not reflect the quality of work, all need to see with my own eyes.
In the collection there are also quite extraordinary things, the type of work for tender for the manufacture of the Baptistery doors (between Brunelleschi and Ghiberti, who eventually order and get it) and gun St. Paul, pictured below:
In addition to sculpture in the Bargello presents a collection of weapons and utensils. The latter was able to surprise me the extraordinary size of dishes with a gorgeous painting. On each of the dishes were present on ten characters are different everywhere, time and effort to the details of painting is clearly not spared.
A sample dishes:
Now a few words about Bernini. Lucky that this time there was a special exhibit dedicated to his work. Very small, two rooms, about thirty works. Bernini himself was represented exclusively by busts (fountains of his work for some reason did not bring ) To create the appropriate atmosphere for the walls were the work of artists of his time. Rubens, Van Dijke, and Velazquez. Rubens, among others, was presented a portrait of Isabella Brandt, first-class work, rastirazhirovanny on all directories and album art. Van Dijk has also been recognizable without any signatures on paintings. If we talk about the Bernini, then his reputation as the best sculptor of the Baroque, he is completely justified. Present and the highest resemblance, and the ability to convey the nature of the characters and mood. Several samples from the exhibit:
  
What else is surprised at the exposition, so that's what part of the work was provided by private collectors. It's hard. Have in their collection of Bernini - it's almost the same as to have a collection of Rubens.
Uffizi
To begin with, that my hand was a big mistake not to order tickets to the Uffizi in advance. This turned out nearly three hours standing in line. Impressions from the Uffizi were mixed, to match the impressions of Florence itself. I guess I expected too much from this picture, and the cruel joke is played loud glory of the Uffizi. In general, the right to say that this is not the Louvre or the Hermitage.And even much less unwound Munich Pinakothek has made me an order of magnitude more impressive than the Uffizi. Now, first things first.
To begin with, that much. Of course, this is Michelangelo's "Holy Family", the work relating to the masterpieces that are sure to want to see:
"Medusa" by Caravaggio. Thing one of those works that live on the produce order of magnitude more impressive than reproductions of the albums and folders.
Photography is not even close passes all the madness and despair sight of Medusa.
Tintoretto, "Leda and the Swan":
This work is the status of an undisputed masterpiece is not felt, but I definitely liked it. Liked and in demand frivolous plot, and features of the emerging baroque compositions (especially evident on the maid, already twisted in two directions), and small chips on the painting, like a cat playing with a duck and a galloping dog. If we talk about the plot, it was really popular at the time. In the Bargello has several sculptures on this theme, with one of them Leda so famously takes a swan in turn, that happens all the really poor swan had no time to even kryaknut
That's it. If you recall the "Isabella Brandt Rubens, transcends Bargello, you are four things vividly remembered the whole considerable size of the Uffizi. Not a lot.
And now faded in italics, so as not to annoy fans of the Uffizi, I'll write about what I categorically did not.
For a start I will say that I have when visiting the Uffizi is not the feeling of permanent chaos. Many small and large flaws just cut eye.
First, not much like herself feed exposure. Namely, the idea of showing both the artifacts themselves, and luxury interior with these exhibits. These are the things in principle are not compatible, because In the first case, the exhibits are placed for reasons of interior design, and the second for reasons of convenience, inspection, and these are two big differences. Explained by the example of the hall Tribune. The situation in this room are just marvelous, but the statues and paintings to consider in detail is unreal. Sculpture to examine all sides, because the only way to evaluate the perfection of form. In the Tribune as all the sculptures are behind a fence and on the various points of inspection are not talking. Similarly with the paintings. On the painting you need to look at different distances to evaluate the distance to the track, and at close range - the details. In the Tribune, once again, this is not possible. Examination of paintings there is possible only from a narrow fence.
The same situation in the corridors of the Uffizi, which displays antique portraits and busts, and in considerable quantities. And it was as interior, and they even did not bother to sign. And should. It is clear that in the corridors and paintings displayed clearly masterpiece level, and the authors of antique busts are unknown. But then the characters themselves rather picturesque and very much interested to know whose it is the bust or portrait.
And finally, the ending theme of feeding exposure, I did not appreciate the idea of stand in one room the art of different eras. I would have understood if the antique statues stood in the hall of Botticelli, in this case a consistent style would be evident. But they stand side by side with a much later painting, which has no trace of ancient origins.
Secondly, an unpleasant impression on lighting. It's just some kind of trouble. And yet, surprisingly, do the normal light is mere penny. Let me explain with an example.Of the four paintings by Caravaggio in the hall to consider only two. On the other two because of the glare of light not seen a damn thing. Just in case, let me remind that Caravaggio loved to paint in brown on a black background and the 400 years of color in his paintings contrast did not. If on such a picture of the incident solar flare, it is not clear, not only parts, but can not see anything. By the way, I have made some effort to examine the painting. Came and left and right, and almost crawled on all fours. All to no avail.
Third, restoration, or rather lack of it. It is clear that it is monstrous money. But other then the museum to find them. Look at Veronese with a dirty gray sky as something completely past the buzz. It's funny that in the catalog Uffizi sky in his paintings still blue. Felt a deep photoshop, as in the case with other authors.
And finally, I was very unpleasantly surprised, then, that the impression left only four pictures. It was so unexpected variant that of surprise, I read a couple of times a thick catalog of the Uffizi and a few directories on painting in the bargain. Conclusions disappointing. Despite the fact that the collection contains all of any significant writers ages 15-16, most of them better not look at the Uffizi, and in other places. This is the case, and Michelangelo, and Raphael, Tintoretto and Veronese. Easier to say who should be regarded in the Uffizi. This is Sandro Botticelli. And yet, if not sad.
Finally, the last touch to my impressions of the Uffizi. In the gallery building at the exit, there is a wine shop. Interestingly, however, views the administration of the gallery about your visitors  To honor the past, I note that in the wine shop was not a soul, but unlike a bookstore where there was a crowd of people and turn into cash.
Emphasizing that all that is written above - it is IMHO. And I do not want to say that the Uffizi is not worth visiting. On the contrary, clearly worth it. If you do not like to visit museums, then you are in the Uffizi will be able to get a general idea of the painting ages 15-16, as Collection of this period and quite extensive and quite impressive. If going to a museum you are wondering, even more so in the Uffizi you'll find many things worthy of attention.
Concluding the topic of museums, I'll write more about the Museum of Archaeology. Went there to look at Etruscan antiquities. The museum occupies two floors in the building of considerable size. In all these hundreds of square meters have three vases, three plates and a collection of coins. The exposition is clearly somewhere slipped, but the museum at the same time forgot to close. Thanks though money for viewing three pots do not have
Travel to Tuscany
Car booked in advance through Maggiore. As it turned out - for good reason. Rent a car, Alfa Romeo 147, cost me 50 euros with a little a day. In the office Maggiore saw several people trying to take the car "Go." Prices in the region of 50 euros was not even close, the cars were offered at prices ranging from 90 - 100 euros per day.
A few words on the machine, Alfa Romeo 147 with a diesel engine:
What kind of animal, I had no idea, but it was interesting to ride through Italy is on an Alfa Romeo. In fact it was funny perdelka such fawn 207. At 140 is a marvel of Italian auto industry began to take down the wind from the road. What is interesting machine, with all its disadvantages, was pretty pick-up.
In general, travel in Tuscany was enough enjoyable. The roads are good and if we do not take into account the highway - half-empty. And on the main roads from vehicles was not much to congestion, at least, it never came. I liked the place east and west of Siena, in particular areas of San Giminyano - Volterra and Buonkonvento - Montalcino - Montepulciano. Both roads - almost empty country roads, go over the hills and forests. Riding on them at 50, looked around, listened to birds singing and smell the blooming of the forest.The main road in Florence - Florence, too, was quite good, especially in the morning when the sun illuminates the side of the flowering acacia tree on roadsides.
As far as I liked to go to Tuscany, just as it was unpleasant to go to Florence. The narrow crooked streets, constant traffic jams and the chronic parking problems. About parking - separate conversation. Never expected that it would be such a problem. It was impossible to park, not only near the center of Florence (which in general was to be expected), but is 2-3 kilometers away, where the tourist attractions do not even smell. Almost all the free parking - only for local cars, with a special card of a resident under the windshield. If the card is not - then the wheel wear iron boots. On the streets, every few dozen meters, hang signs with threats forced evacuation of the car. And given how much I've seen cars in chains, I very much believe that my car, in which case, taken away, as promised. In general, we had a car at night and leave on a paid parking lot. Price 24 euros per night, not like totally. And it is on the Florentine standards, yet cheap, have seen price tags, and 35 euros per night.
Finally a few words about the driving style of local residents. To my surprise, they were pretty vicious carrier. The fact that someone you have missed out on the road, not even went out of the question, place on a road had to be taken by storm. Particularly surprised by how zealously defended their right avtomobilistskie grandfather on Fiat thirty years ago. They definitely were ready to enter a competing car in the side, in order not to miss it before myself.
Pistoia
Drove along the road to Lucca. In the Middle Ages was known Pistoia cruel manners of its inhabitants, who invented a special dagger «pistola» to resolve political disputes, as well as multi-page text of Machiavelli on the subject, how best to clean up this Pistoia Florentine hands. Now it is a small town. From old customs of local residents disappeared without a trace, and the residents themselves there remains a little. Than the rest live in Pistoia citizens - is unclear. The city is not the slightest hint of either the presence of tourists, nor the existence of any trade or industry. I suspect the locals have to travel to work in nearby larger cities, Lucca or Florence.
The very center of the city:
An impressive number and age of local residents. Salient point. Here seen an elderly couple, visiting the cathedral. In the hands of his grandfather was the dense book, and it was not a tourist guide, and the Bible. It happened on the tenth day stay in Italy. Until then here are believers in the cathedrals I have not come across.
Duomo, or rather what was left of him:
Central Square:
Small winding streets:
Total spent in Pistoia about half an hour, to inspect the historic center of this was enough. Another purpose of the trip was Lucca.
Lucca
Lucca, in contrast to Pistoia, was quite a big city, and last but not least, quite a few original attractions. The city is situated on a plain surrounded by solid, and surprisingly, well-preserved wall. The town is accessible only through a few gates, the distance between the gate - a few kilometers. Tourists are quite a lot, but it is compared to Pistoia. A comparison with Florence - they are effectively dead.Interestingly, many of the tourists who came to town, ride around on bikes on it. That, in general, correctly, as, and a great city and a place quite smooth. Where are bikes - discovered by accident. It turns out they can be rented for car parking. Very convenient. You put the car into the parking lot and immediately transplanted to the bike.
One of the central squares of Lucca, Piazza Napoleone:
Already on the size of this area can be judged on the size of the city. From Napoleon, is quite an interesting story. In 1805. When French troops invaded Italy, Napoleon gave Lucca to his sister. Residents of such a gift, surprisingly, liked it, and the area still bears the name of Napoleon
San Mishele area, located in her eponymous cathedral:
The facade of the cathedral, the main feature of Lucca:
Zoom:
Even larger:
Construction of the cathedral began in the 11 th century later, has attached to it a new facade. If you look closely, each column on the facade and its surrounding details are unique. Total number of columns over 40. Another interesting feature: the facade is clearly above the cathedral. Side it produces a rather strange impression, but when you look directly at the front, it looks very strong.
In the same style and the building of the Duomo is satisfied:
The facade of the Duomo, apart from the tower:
The city has several old towers, they can climb, views are wonderful.
Type in the direction of San Michele:
The cathedral itself blocked by a brick tower, but because of her visible piece of the rear of the front, protruding above the roof of the cathedral.
Looking the Duomo:
View of the Cathedral of San Frediano:
A fragment of the facade San Frediano closeup, with a mosaic 13th century:
Another church, San Giovanni:
Lucca was built on the site of the ancient Roman colony. Traces of the Romans left a bit, but they are. Piazza del Mercato is located on the site of a Roman amphitheater. From the amphitheater was nothing left but the area just repeats its oval shape:
Lanes on the outer side of the oval of the former amphitheater:
In the area of Piazza del Mercato is a cluster that's just such little eaten. Fed very well. I had a chance to try Lucca gnocchi with shrimp sauce and zucchini. It was incredibly delicious, and unexpectedly, pasta sauce with zucchini to me this has not yet come across.
Relatively Lucca can mention another interesting point. The city is clearly thrived in the 19 st century that can be said is not about all the Italian cities. This is clearly seen on the streets with an abundance of signs like these here:
And the fact that Syracuse is the birthplace of Puccini, said that in the 19 th century the city was not a European backwater.
Monteriggioni (Monteriggioni)
Hopefully, in Russian, I wrote the name correctly There is this small town near Siena, right from the highway Florence - Siena. Call it a village of the town hard, the whole Monteriggioni have a half dozen two-and three-storey houses, plus the gardens with vegetable gardens. All of this farm is surrounded by a monumental wall, only slightly inferior to the size of the Kremlin. Sienese town was built in the early 13th century and was parking the garrison defending Siena from the neighbors - the Florentines. Place, unlike San Gimignano, the tourist mecca is not, and people in the city is virtually absent.
The central area of the town:
Local church:
Restaurant:
View from city wall on local streets, making a total in the city as much as much as two things:
The city gates with a view of the neighborhood:
View from city wall to the back of the church, with gardens - Garden:
The highly picturesque place wholeheartedly recommend.
Sienna
Very large city, which is not surprising when we remember that Siena was the financial center of medieval Europe. Sometimes I even thought that Sienna is larger in Florence, though, probably is not. From the place where I threw the car (and the feelings it was near the center) to the gates of the old town I had to walk for five minutes. And then, from the gate to the actual city center, another twenty minutes.
Skinny Sienese wolf, symbol of the city:
Is present in the old town in the mountains. Resemblance to the Roman she-wolf is not accidental, according to legend, Siena was founded by the sons of Remus. Strongly suspect that this legend is the fruit of a political, rather than people's imaginations. To protect its independence is small, compared with Rome, Siena desperately needed help of strong southern neighbors. And the desire to flatter the vanity of the Romans, but at the same time remind them of the responsibility to protect his younger brothers, it looks quite natural.
Gloomy streets of the old city:
Siena is located on some pretty high hills. Central streets are on the ridges connecting the hills. Thus, as in the photo above, look down the side streets running from the main streets. I must say, it's pretty unusual to walk down the street located on the top of the ridge, and to see both sides of the lanes going down dramatically.
View from the top of one of the Sienese hills:
View of the central area of the Piazza del Campo and City Hall (Palazzo Pubblico):
Area and the building board so huge that their land is absolutely impossible to photograph. The tower's height - more than 100m, the second highest tower in Italy (Florence higher). When you come to the area immediately realize that it is built on ancient Roman ruins. This is clearly seen and semicircular area and its slope down (from the edges toward the center). Once again I was surprised how grandiose structures built by the Romans.In this case, on the former site of the Roman Forum easily fit a huge building of the city council (one of the largest in Italy) and a dozen high-rise buildings on the perimeter.
View of the area and the building of the Council from the walls of the Duomo, located atop a nearby hill:
The area of close-up:
A fountain in the center of the square, with fixed-wolf:
Another detail of the fountain:
A few words about the other attractions of Siena, the Duomo. The building is too huge and, again, from the ground to shoot is unreal. Started the construction was in the mid 12 th century and abandoned in the late 14 th. It was abandoned because Cathedral so to the end and not completed. Blame - the plague, were killed in a large proportion of the population of Siena in the mid 14 th century and put an end to the prosperity of the city. Despite the fact that the unfinished cathedral, he makes a strong impression of quality and richness of its decoration.
A fragment of the facade Duomo:
Another wolf in the background of the facade:
Another snippet:
The unfinished part of the cathedral:
To this standing alone can climb the wall, the entrance - through the museum room (brick building on the left). View from above the central square was removed from it.
View from the wall in the cathedral itself:
View of the surroundings:
Siena Pinacoteca
Especially to go into it was not going, but the rain and the Pinakothek was next It is not difficult to guess, is almost entirely a collection consists of works by artists of the Siena school. No miracles from the Sienese school, I did not expect and my expectations are fully met. Miraculously, it was already that this school once existed in nature. From local artists more or less decent impression only unknown to me previously Giovanni bazzite. However, it should be noted that his work look good on the background of paintings frankly deplorable level.Visiting artists from the main star of the collection was a Florentine Vasari, that the level of the gallery also says a lot.
A typical example of local art:
It's Madonna, and not an Aztec warrior, if someone did not think
Since in the field of aesthetics breakthrough has not happened, we had to focus on the subjects of paintings. And, quite unexpectedly, there was something to see. Exploring the contents of medieval paintings, with great interest I learned for myself the question of early Christian martyrs death. As it turned out, the ways of their departure from life is very varied. In addition to the banal amputation of the head, pobieniya stones and burning at the stake, was present and more exotic ways. For example, with a fair breaking on the wheel pulling out the innards and removing the skin alive. Both pictures were drawn by the medieval author with considerable knowledge of the details of the process  Also in attendance were no less original paintings vyshvyrivaniya sufferers from the second story window (presumably to die not immediately), and eating a martyr three bears. The last picture has caused me a lot of questions Judging by the plot, it was in the deep woods, next to a bear den, and no messengers of hell in the face of the Gentiles, basurman and other heretics in the picture was observed. I suspect the poor fellow has decided to repeat the feat of St. Francis, preaching the word of God irrational creatures, but fatally miscalculated with the choice of the latter
Quite a few, well, amused view of medieval art at the afterlife. And if in case the image hell local authors fatally nedotyagivali to the level of Bosch, a paradise in their image will be quite interesting. The first thing that surprised a lot of submissions from local residents about the heavenly life, was that in heaven all should be strictly pairwise No single characters or groups of several people in the heavenly patterns were noted. Couples themselves were also quite funny: a priest in white robes, embracing the priest in a cassock black, an elderly priest and an old nun, who are looking sweetly at each other, the younger monk with a nun, and embracing, but somehow not very chaste And a dozen more pairs in the same spirit. It is not difficult to see paradise filled exclusively holders colored cassocks I feel that towards the end of the picture, the author (who no doubt he was a monk) still had the idea that his opinion on the people of paradise is somewhat different from the canonical and in the same corner of the picture appeared a couple of persons in civilian attire
And finally, another story that struck me deeply. The classic scene of bringing baby to the temple. Here we must note one thing. In the Middle Ages do not really know how to draw.And so unsophisticated parishioners could distinguish the paintings of the saints, villains (and the fact that they can be distinguished by their expressions in the Middle Ages, nobody even hoped), the first overhead pririsovyvali halo. So, in these paintings, and their presence in the Pinakothek whole series, everything was clear and without the halo. On the faces of the Pharisees who did not want to acknowledge the babe was written by a bright mixture of genuine surprise and disgust, that no questions about where the good guys here, and where bad, not even arise
Here's an unexpectedly funny, we got a campaign in a local art gallery
More on Siena
Little about the local cuisine. Succeeded only in quick to have dinner, but the impression left mass. Visited here this institution:
Ristorante Pizzeria Due Archi, 48 Piano dei Mantellini, very colorful folksy eatery. Owner institution attended at the restaurant in person, and not in the singular The walls were hung everywhere in his photographs chef garb. They looked as if the tavern owner won vseitalyansky competition of cooks, not less. The audience was attended by a few tourists and a bunch of local hard workers, friends, a restaurant owner. Hardworking galdeli loudly and continuously slapped his friend-restaurateur on the back, creating a unique atmosphere of an Italian eatery.
Ordered in an institution had pasta with seafood, most of which was unknown to me with cancer of the Marine desyatisantimetrovymi claws. And the hefty claws were not detected immediately, but only after I have thoroughly delved into a paste. Food, as well as coloring institution, I would rate on the solid 5 stars. In the same institution, I realized one interesting vesh: when the waiter does not understand what the «water», and has to recall the local «aqua», the chances for a decent feeding dramatically increases (although, of course, there are exceptions).
At the end of a couple of strokes to the appearance of Siena. Many tourists. It is obvious that this is the second most visited place in Tuscany, after Florence. However, the impenetrable crowds, like the Florentine Duomo and Signoria, there is not. Stores are impressive. Gucci, Versace and Dolce with other Gabanami present in the full range.
San Gimignano
A small town between Florence and Siena, is, like many Tuscan city, on top of a hill. His popularity is due the fact that the image of the city from 14 th century, remained virtually unchanged. The first thing that struck me in San Gimignano, is the fact that the city is firmly fallen into the clutches of the local tourism industry. In the city there was not a single house, not turned into a shop, cafe or restaurant. Through the streets run hither crowd of teenagers svezennyh buses from all over Tuscany, and the number of other tourists also not happy. However, this does not spoil the impression of the city. In addition to an unusual silhouette of the city like the sand color eye pleasing homes and enchanting views of the surrounding area.
View on San Gimignano from the foot of the hill:
The central shopping street, with the indispensable tower in the background:
One of the areas, again with a tower:
Shops and restaurants:
Another point of catering:
Local Entertainment:
These harpists in San Gimignano present a whole brigade, and later was detected and flautist, lurking behind a tree. It must be noted that such music is quite consistent with the style of the city. At the sight of those scenes I somehow remembered Milan, where he was also a lot of street musicians. Only in Milan it was bayanists with balalaika, just like these guys
View from the top of the hill on the neighborhood:
Another one:
Pit in the middle of the square:
In San Gimignano, I managed to master driving a subspecies of the trip. Coming out of the gates of the old city, I caught myself thinking that I do not remember where I left the car The gates were seemingly those lanes next to the gate, too, looked familiar, but the machine was not I had to get around town on a circle to find out whether they are gates or not. Gates were the ones that need it. And then go from beginning to end five streets, leaving from the gate for a good mile. In the end, after the hour and a half walk under the hot Tuscan sun, the car was - still be found. Joy was - no words to describe 
Volterra
Really liked the way San Gimignano - Volterra. Almost empty, first on the hills, wooded, and then by a prolonged rise of the hill. Volterra, like San Gimignano, situated on a hill, but this hill will be three times higher. A city with a very ancient history.Initially - Etruscan (that the Etruscans began to build a city in Tuscany on hilltops, and the name of this province be given the right they are), and later the Roman, even later - the medieval, repeatedly passed from hand to hand. Monuments of civilization remained quite tolerable form.
The view from the city to the neighborhood:
Street in the center:
Lanes, discarded down; typical of Tuscan hill towns:
The ruins of the Roman Theater:
The medieval fortress:
Etruscan tomb, an exhibit of a local museum:
About this thing a little more detail. Walked into the museum just to see something like that. Had in the past to see these tombs (in the Louvre) and to me they are impressed. As it turned out, for this is the tomb - a rarity. In the museum of more than six hundred, and nearly all of them are made of extremely artisanal level. But as is evident from this photo, and exceptions occur.
Another interesting point. The city has a large ex-Soviet diaspora. Was discovered by accident. Akkurat contrary restaurant, where I stayed to dinner, met tusovka local Russian-speaking aunties. Aunts loudly discussed the latest news: one of their girlfriends was put to work out. Discussion lasted for about half an hour and ended with a logical conclusion: all of their employers - the bastards, like all men in general During the debate it became clear that my aunt at a restaurant crowded with good reason, part of the staff it was from the former Soviet Union. Including, apparently, and cook. Anyway, the pasta in the local institution to the pain was like our noodles with butter. Okay, thank you, though not poisoned
Generally, a stunning impression of Voltaire did not make. The road is very pleasant, nice views from the walls, the museum is worth seeing. And the city itself - not much. After pleasing the eyes light-sand houses of San Gimignano and Monteriggioni gloomy Volterra clearly not looking.
Montalcino
As already wrote, really liked the road south of Siena. Especially land Buonkonvento - Montalcino - Pienza - Montepulciano. Classic Tuscan types (fields with strange yellow grass, cypress trees, hills and vineyards) is usually removed here. The road represents a country road with almost no cars and you can afford to travel leisurely and consider the neighborhood.
Montalcino, as you might guess from the title, is situated on a hilltop:
The view from the city to the surrounding fields:
It should be noted, despite the beginning of May, south of Siena, it was already the most genuine summer. Flowers wither, burnt grass, the sun burn with, the ground was typical of the hot weather haze.
Another view of the city from the top of the hill:
Old houses:
Streets, cut off sharply downwards from the inimitable Tuscan landscape in the background:
Montalcino - one of the centers of local wine, the birthplace of Brunello. This is immediately felt by the abundance of shops with just such a product:
Pleased with the relationship between tourists and shops selling wine. The latter was clearly more Prices start at Brunello 13 euros, bought myself a few bottles to sample. Most liked Le Potazzine Gorelli, what with the birds. Here it is a close-up:
If we talk about all of Brunello, Amarone, it is after a stunning impression on me is not produced. Although, once a reservation, I tried it much less, only 4 varieties. The general conclusion is: the classic strict flavor without any hint of fruit or berry tones, plus, is not as thick as Amarone. True, their chips in Brunello too. When buying wine I highly recommend it decanted at least two hours. The experiment was performed, and was quite interesting to see how changes with time taste of wine. Taste just opened Brunello unusually harsh, with very strong and a long finish. Later, the wine becomes softer and the taste is moving somewhere in the direction of Bordeaux. The latter, by the way, I did not like, because wine (for my taste) has begun to lose its charm and personality. So, Brunello to drink without decanting. Separately, I note aftertaste Le Potazzine Gorelli. Couple of glasses of wine was drunk before dinner, in the Florentine Hotel. Then I was coming by way of a favorite tavern on the opposite bank of the Arno, the half-hour walk. So, on arrival in the tavern tart taste Brunello is still standing in my mouth. A great result.
Another feature to the appearance of Montalcino. At the top of the hill is a football field, as expected, perfectly smooth. It's amazing, because in the city there are no streets, wherever elevation was not a dozen of meters. Somehow immediately remembered the place occupied by the Italians in football. And if we are talking about sport, it is striking number of cyclists, travel around Tuscany. Moreover, the higher came across a mountain, the more cyclists tried to climb it. Again, the Italians came back to achieve in cycling.
Pienza
After all that has already seen not impressed.I know that this place is popular with tourists and many like it, but in Pienza, plus I can put just magnificent views of the mountains that separate from the Lazio Tuscany. The town itself is tiny, pass it along, across and around took me 20 minutes. Pienza left with a slight regret about half the euro, given for parking
Montepulciano
On Montalcino Montepulciano like not only the title. The city's skyline is also similar, as both cities are also centers of wine production. Differences, however, also quite a lot. Mountain on which stands Montepulciano clearly higher, the streets in the city as abruptly. Yes and stormy wine trade in the local production of Montepulciano is not thriving.
View of the mountains that separate from the Lazio Tuscany:
Well in the center of the city:
Sculptures that adorn the well, close-up:
As I understand it, the griffin - a symbol of the city, in Montepulciano, they are present everywhere.
Typical of the kind of Montepulciano, the town is not spoiled by tourists, and locals in it a bit:
Parking lot with panoramic views over the surrounding fields:
I have for this kind of surcharge would have taken
Montepulciano on my trip to Tuscany, and Italy in general, has ended.
The main impression from Tuscany were as follows:
- City on the hill (south of Florence) - it is something. The strongest impression from the trip.
- Country roads (again south of Florence) - very good. Hills, forests, fields, cypress trees, vineyards - all very picturesque.
- Florence left a mixed impression. On the one hand - this is the place of discharge must see, on the other hand - mud, and an incredible amount of people.
- Lucca and Siena - definitely worth a visit. The highly colorful city, and very unlike each other and the city of Florence.
Unfortunately, during this trip was to examine only a third of Tuscany (central part of north-south). Behind the scenes left the coast of Tuscany and the eastern part of the region (Arezzo, Cortona, etc.). This is the goal of the next trip.
Finally, one more touch to a trip to Italy. From Florence, I moved to Munich and with great surprise found there that I still love the simple German cuisine. Potato salad, sauerkraut, sausage, pork legs and meat rolls - just went with a bang. Perhaps, in contrast to the Italian delights This here is an unexpected last impression of the trip was
Author: Santa Mazai
Talk: http://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?f=560&t=73003
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